The Audemars Piguet Chronicles

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The Audemars Piguet Chronicles - Audemars Piguet
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What are they and why are they important?

The Audemars Piguet Chronicles are the result of an immense historical work dedicated to the 50-year production of the brand’s most famous model – the Royal Oak. This catalogue raisonné is the ultimate historical reference work on the Royal Oak (mechanical models only) to date. 

Meticulously researched, this series of articles and documents has been compiled by the best in the business – Audemars Piguet’s patrimony team –  who have traced the history of the collection from 1972 to 2022, including historical aspects of the collection, technical innovations, photos from the archives, exclusive anecdotes, and stories about the people behind the scenes. 

For the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has published the first 10 years of the collection’s history online for collectors and enthusiasts to use as a research tool or peruse for pleasure. Here are five snippets of Royal Oak history that caught our eye!

The Audemars Piguet Chronicles

The First Royal Oak Model

The story of the birth of the creation of the Royal Oak has almost reached legendary status in the watch industry as everyone has their own version of how Gérald Genta came to design one of the watch industry’s most important icons in just one night. Thanks to the AP Chronicles, you can discover the official tale of how it all began. 

The Jumbos

For collectors interested in the “Jumbo” references, the AP chronicles document the whole line-up of “Jumbo” models, from the very first reference 5402 in 1972, to models 14802 (1992), 15002 (1996), 15202 (2000), and 16202 (2022). This article also looks back at the origin of the name that was used as an internal nickname before being picked up by collectors. Today these watches are considered small in comparison by modern-day standards, but they keep the “Jumbo” term, which can be confusing to new watch enthusiasts. But once you know the history, you understand!

The Audemars Piguet Chronicles

Fluctuating Size Trends

Although the Royal Oak started off relatively large for its day, it then started to shrink. By the year 1977, the models had dropped from 39mm to 35mm in diameter. They went up again in 1983, but only by a millimetre to 36mm. At the end of the 1990s, however, watches began to dramatically increase in size again, which can be seen with the arrival of the Royal Oak Offshore 25721, measuring a whopping 42mm. When Gérald Genta clapped eyes on this large timepiece during the Basel Fair, he was quoted calling it a “sea elephant”! For collectors – who are normally the ones to baptize watches – they preferred the term “The Beast”. 

Worldwide Forest Conservation Model

The Audemars Piguet Foundation has been supporting the cause of worldwide forest conservation for a number of years now through environmental protection and youth awareness-raising programmes. In 1995, the manufacture unveiled a magnificent open-worked Royal Oak model featuring a gold engraving of a royal oak tree on the dial. This motif was then reproduced in two one-of-a-kind anniversary pieces in the year 2000. 

The Audemars Piguet Chronicles

Modern-Day Royal Oaks

For those interested in modern-day production, the AP Chronicles also takes a close look at the 72 celebratory editions that have been released for this important anniversary. There are also seven new calibres joining the collection, allowing for new aesthetics within the collection. Each of the anniversary pieces comes with a “50 Years” oscillating weight, making these timepieces even more collectible. 

For more gems of information about the Royal Oak collection – new and old – discover the AP Chronicles online. Even the most informed connoisseur will come away with an enriched knowledge of this watchmaking icon. 

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François-Henry Bennahmias