The 2018 new releases from Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the brand’s haute horlogerie arm, provide a comprehensive view of the company’s abilities. It is probably by chance that these five watches cover such a broad spectrum. But it’s no accident that they are so modern. For a long time, L.U.C has been pigeonholed as ultra-classical. But inertia has never been one of the brand’s faults. And that is why the manufacture has revisited some of its classics to give them an entirely new and well-thought-out sense of modernity.
There’s a fine line between change and betrayal, and for a collection that is celebrating its 20th anniversary, a collection that is in a way the “baby” of the company president, betrayal would be unthinkable. Accordingly, the new L.U.C watches place the emphasis in just the right places. First, on women’s watches. The L.U.C XP watches, in smaller sizes, have been around for a long time, as have the Esprit de Fleurier models with their more highly decorated interpretations. But the latest addition is on a different level. The dial represents a peony, one of the recurring themes of the collection. But it is made out of cut paper, in the old Swiss Vaudois folk art tradition. A black openworked mask rests on top of a white grand feu enamel background. The movement is beautifully engraved with peonies and “Fleurisanne” scrollwork.
L.U.C has unveiled another model with a completely different, more androgynous tone. The Heritage Grand Cru, with its slim barrel-shaped case gently bowed to fit the wrist, comes in an ultra-formal version in white gold with black dial and bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. Would it go with black tie? Is it for a man or a woman? Perhaps a little black dress would be more appropriate? All options are open.
Things are much clearer where Chopard’s très grandes complications are concerned. No matter what the style, only the most devoted lovers of horology need apply. The first is a white gold version (a brand new alloy) of the Full Strike minute repeater, which has won several awards for the many useful (and acoustical) innovations it encloses. The second marks the return of a giant. In 2010, L.U.C celebrated Chopard’s 150th anniversary with the All In One. The model is back with a limited series in rose gold with a khaki-coloured gold dial. It remains monumental, with a diameter of 46 mm and a depth of 18 mm. But that’s what it needs to hold the tourbillon, perpetual calendar with big date and the multiple astronomical indications on the back.
Chopard’s final risk concerns colour. The Quattro is encased in rose gold, with a satin-brushed grey dial and bright blue hands. The keyword of this watch is stamina: the Quattro itself is twenty years old, like its movement, which has a power reserve of nine days. Its main feature, however, is its slimness. 8.8 mm is already extremely thin, but in a watch that measures 43 mm across the effect is particularly striking, and in the best possible taste.
