Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and whoever sets eyes on the FB3 “Only Watch” that Ferdinand Berthoud is offering for sale at the charity auction will surely find that it is indeed a beauty.
This watch isn’t rare. It is unique. It alone will celebrate the 270th anniversary of Ferdinand Berthoud’s title of Master Watchmaker. It is the only FB3 to be cased in bronze, with a patina that was months in development. Its movement is the only Chronometer-certified calibre to incorporate a cylindrical balance spring. And to top it all, this is the only chance any collector will have to acquire an FB3, in the foreseeable future at least, given the waitlist of several years.
Maritime roots
This FB3 “Only Watch” draws from several sources. Some will remember the five unique pieces unveiled by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud in 2019, their bronze case patinated as though they had lain undiscovered on the ocean bed along with the Astrolabe, the ship commanded by Lapérouse that sunk in 1788, taking with it marine chronometers by Ferdinand Berthoud. Every one of these FB1 chronometers found a buyer in just a few hours. The FB2 introduced a new round case shape and the FB3 a new movement with a cylindrical balance spring.
Like its predecessor, the FB3 “Only Watch” comes with a patinated bronze case. It is the only FB3 of its kind and the first round case in bronze by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. Months of trials were needed to achieve the desired shade and nuances, which then had to be stabilised prior to applying the chosen finish. The end result is warmer and slightly browner than previous iterations.
An exceptional movement
The movement inside the FB3 “Only Watch” is unique in having a cylindrical balance spring and official Chronometer rating, in honour of Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers. At 9 o’clock, the escapement’s three main organs of the balance wheel, the escape wheel and the lever are prominently exposed. The wearer can see the cylindrical balance spring as it beats throughout the three days of power reserve, including through a porthole in the midcase at 9 o’clock. Indications are easily read from the four hands, although we would have preferred to see the hour hand with the same solid (as opposed to openworked) profile as the others, for greater legibility and presence.
The movement is expressive rather than demonstrative; a reminder that this is a watch made with the knowledgeable collector in mind, never crossing a line into ostentation. This discretion is reinforced by the 42mm case size, by the patina of the bronze and by the quiet elegance of the verdigris strap.
This subtle exterior also allows the movement to emerge with greater conviction and intensity. Through brown and golden tones, each element asserts its personality without taking away from the rest. The hand-finishing, in particular the polished chamfers, is outstanding. Flawless.
