Several watchmakers presented jewellery watches during Geneva Watch Days, much to the joy of WorldTempus’ female members of the team. Here are some of the timepieces that particularly caught our eye.
Bulgari Divina Mosaica
This was the watch that resulted in the biggest wow from the WorldTempus team. This exquisite work of jewellery setting is inspired by the fan-paved floors of the Roman Baths of Caracalla. The motif is reproduced on the dial in three different variations. The Divina Mosaica Minute Repeater comes with 689 diamonds, the Divina Mosaica Pink Sapphire is set with 282 diamonds and 261 pink sapphires, and the Divina Mosaica Tsavorite is embellished with 282 diamonds and 261 tsavorites.
The beauty of these pieces is not just in their gem setting, they are all equipped with equally spectacular movements. The diamond version is powered by an ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound minute repeater caliber, while the other two versions are fitted with automatic movements.
Bovet’s Récital 23
A unique “writing slope” oval case, a gorgeous off-set turquoise guilloché dial a precision moon phase, and an expert diamond setting make the Bovet Récital 23 truly stand out from the crowd. We particularly appreciated the moon phase that is crafted onto a hemispherical dome. The dome is engraved to evoke the surface of the moon and is filled with luminescent material for a spectacular night effect. Note the moon’s indicator that is read via a three-dimensional circular aperture that requires over a day’s work to be manufactured and decorated. Another detail is the elegant hands that form a heart every time they meet. You can look at this timepiece for hours and always discover something new. It is no surprise that is has been nominated for the GPHG’s Ladies’ Complication Award.
Breguet Tradition 7035
Breguet wasn’t technically part of Geneva Watch Days, however, we decided to pop into the Geneva boutique to get a sneak peek at their brand-new Tradition 7035, and we were so glad we did. The Tradition was the first Breguet timepiece to feature the entire movement on the dial. The collection is a modern-day interpretation of the subscription watches designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet and is noted for the architecture of its fully symmetrical caliber.
This new 7035 reference takes this unique caliber and dresses it in mother-of-pearl and diamonds. The 18-karat gold dial, plate, and bridges are all snow-set with different-sized diamonds to keep the visible material to a minimum and maximize the sparkle of the gemstones. Diamonds also encircle the bezel and mother-of-pearl highlights the chapter ring for a piece that had us all oohing and ahhing.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Ultimate 1
A magical use of different materials comes into play in the Arnold & Son Luna Magna Ultimate 1 to recreate the moon in its galaxy. The subdial at 12 o’clock is made of a rare, pure white opal that has a unique sheen, white the night sky is achieved with ruthenium crystals. Ruthenium is an extremely hard material that is found together with platinum in the same ore. Separating them is a complex process, making ruthenium ten times rarer than platinum.
The large moon is decorated with a mix of diamonds and blue sapphires and is extremely accurate. It will keep track of the exact phase of the moon for 122 years if kept wound. The whole galactic scene is framed by 112 baguette-cut and invisibly set diamonds on the bezel and a further 20 baguettes on the lugs.
Claude Meylan Tortue
It is easy to make a timepiece sparkle with diamonds, but making it dazzle without gemstones is a true art. Claude Meylan’s new Tortue collection does just this in a way that is both feminine and horologically serious. The time is displayed in a subdial at 12 o’clock with the number 12 highlighted in red or blue. This is balanced by a micro-rotor at six o’clock that spins on the dial side of the watch, creating an attractive animation. Elements of the movement are partially revealed, while others are decorated with a fine sunrise guilloché or a Côtes de Genève motif. Combining all these elements together makes them shine brighter than diamonds!
