Ini Archibong’s first gallop

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Ini Archibong’s first gallop - Hermès
4 minutes read
After a colourful début at the SIHH in 2018, this year Hermès unveils a completely new women’s collection created in collaboration with a talented designer from a completely different creative universe.

As is so often the case, everything began with a meeting – a meeting of two different worlds. The encounter was between Ini Archibong, a Los Angeles native of Nigerian origin who had recently graduated from the ECAL [Lausanne Cantonal School of Art], and Philippe Delhotal, creative director of Hermès Horloger. This collaboration, which began three years ago on the shores of Lake Geneva, led to the genesis of a vibrant new women’s line that retains the company’s indissoluble link with the equestrian world, through its shapes and through its name – Galop.

Ini Archibong’s first gallop

It’s no accident that this collection is for women, given that it was with women that Hermès Horlogerie took its first steps into watchmaking. Indeed, Hermès didn’t venture into men’s watches until seven years ago. In keeping with the company’s values, Hermès has once again combined innovation with its own distinctive style and aesthetic. The aim was to infuse the brand with a breath of fresh air by creating a model that exudes modernity while acknowledging its rich heritage. The company decided to approach external designers, which is how Ini Archibong, who started out in lighting and furniture design, entered the world of watchmaking.

Ini Archibong’s first gallop

Philippe Delhotal’s brief was deliberately broad, to give the designer free rein to his imagination. The aim was to produce an iconic women’s watch with “good ergonomics, a strong personality and a genuine presence.” Ini Archibong began by immersing himself in the world of watches and the brand values, by visiting the Conservatoire des Créations Hermès in Paris. He examined the smallest details of all the original equestrian tack, observing its technical construction, shapes, wear and finishes. He returned from his trip with his head full of images and ideas, keen to get started on the creative process.

Ini Archibong’s first gallop

Each detail of the watch has been painstakingly thought out. As Ini Archibong explains, his goal as a designer is to create an experience. Conscious of everything going on around him, he chose to create a timeless watch that conveys emotion, that gives an impression of movement, and that can be recognised from a distance. This distinctive character resides mainly in the shape of the case, which required considerable thought. Round? No, too many possibilities. Square? No, too rigid. How about a stirrup? Yes, perfect.

Once he’d defined the shape, he focused on the lines and flow of the design. In his specialist domain he pays particular attention to curves and aerodynamic styling, but his primary focus is light. “Light is the material I work with. I create shapes to capture light. I’ve learnt to design aerodynamic shapes and futuristic lines that exploit surfaces and explore lighting effects,” he explains. This essential ingredient was therefore a vital part of the design of the new Galop line, and the result is stunning. Whatever angle you look at the watch face, there are no reflections to impede visibility or obscure the elegance of the minimalist dial.

Ini Archibong’s first gallop

The dial is spectacular because it’s simple, not complex. The grained and silvered outer edge features transferred Arabic numerals with a powdered finish, in either silver or gold depending on the version. The centre of the dial, where the rhodium-plated hour and minute hands are anchored, is opaline. These contrasting textures give the dial depth, an effect that is enhanced by the graduated typography, creating a perspective effect. At 8 o’clock, the number that traditionally represents infinity has been transformed into an inverted stirrup, a discreet nod to the equestrian world that inspired the watch. As far as the crown is concerned, the designer knew straight away that he wasn’t going to put it on the side of the case. Its unusual location at 6 o’clock adds symmetry and a quirky touch.

Ini Archibong’s first gallop

This quartz watch inspired by Hermès riding tack is available in steel and rose gold, and the bezel can be optionally set with 150 diamonds (approx. 0.66 ct). The case with its feminine dimensions of 40.8 mm by 26 mm feels light and comfortable on the wrist. We’re told that a smaller variant could also be in the works...

Ini Archibong’s first gallop

The straps are made of leather, Hermès’ signature material and an essential ingredient of equestrian equipment. The rose gold versions come with a choice of smooth alligator in sapphire blue, ember, raspberry, elephant grey or black, matte alligator in oakum, and natural or black Barenia calfskin. The steel versions come with smooth alligator straps in sapphire blue, ember, blackberry, elephant grey and black. And, while these options have the virtue of being available immediately, Hermès can offer over thirty colourways in total.

Ini Archibong’s first gallop

In conclusion, the Galop collection shows that, while the worlds of watchmaking, furniture and light fittings would not appear at first sight to have much in common, from a design standpoint they are not so far apart. Ini Archibong says he took a similar approach, focusing on the experience of the object, the distinction between what the observer sees and what the object gives back, and the way that light reflects off the surfaces.

With its equestrian-inspired case, the Galop collection is a reminder of both Hermès’ origins, and of how far it has come. It’s still a functional object, but rather than being cumbersome and unattractive, it is beautiful, light and luminous. Ini Archibong’s first gallop into the world of watchmaking will certainly not go unnoticed!

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