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Geneva Watch Days
H.Moser & Cie - The clean stream  keeps flowing

H.Moser & Cie The clean stream keeps flowing

Presentation of the Geneva Watch Days Novelties 2021 and other launches

Take a good look around. Try to find a timepiece that’s as contemporary and radically unique as the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. There just isn’t one. Then try to find a word to describe its shape. There isn’t one either. Finally, dig deeper and name one other perpetual calendar with an equally smooth dial. Odds are you already know you can only find them at H. Moser & Cie., since all of their perpetual calendars look like this. Which is to say, unlike anything we have come to expect from this type of watch.

Uninterrupted

The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is a rare combination of unique design and forwardthinking watchmaking. The former gave us the Streamliner, the latter Caliber HMC 812. Together, they compose a timepiece like no other. One that’s perfectly ergonomic, comfortable, easy to read, uncluttered and yet extremely sophisticated. When H. Moser & Ci.e launched the first Streamliner, in the shape of a chronograph, it already managed to do away with the one thing people associate with a stopwatch: registers. From the very beginning, it laid out the core idea of a clean, sleek dial. Which could have made a Streamliner perpetual calendar impossible, because such models have subdials – at least two and sometimes four – to indicate the day, date, month and leap year.

Natural

Fortunately, H. Moser & Cie. had in its stable what is still the oddest perpetual calendar of them all, with none of the usual design characteristics of its category. Caliber HMC 812 is a slight variation of one of the oldest movements developed by Moser since the relaunch of the company in 2005. First off, it has a very large date based on a single disk. So large that all 31 dates couldn’t fit if there wasn’t a trick. There are actually two stacked date rings. The first one ranges from 1 to 15 and has an opening on the 16th position. Once it reaches said position, it stays put so the disk underneath can show up and finish the month. Secondly, it doesn’t display the day. Thirdly, it points to the month with an inconspicuous hand, on the same axis as the minutes and hours. Fourthly, the leap-year indication, the barely ever useful one, is exiled to the back. Fifth and lastly, somewhere along the way, H. Moser & Cie. added a power-reserve indicator, discreetly appearing around 10 o’clock. This is an interesting feature since the HMC 812 has a seven-day power reserve, like many of the firstgeneration Moser in-house calibers.

Obvious

Moser thus created a collection requiring as little clutter on the dial as possible, while also having the one perfect perpetual calendar movement to power it – which is of course no coincidence. It also already had the one perfect case in which to house it. The original model from the collection, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic, also measures 42.3mm in diameter. This naked perpetual calendar is the first Streamliner to feature a black dial. Its sunburst finish is the same as the on the bezel. It features the collection’s two-level seconds track, giving the final sporty touch to what is definitely not a dress watch, nor a run-of-the-mill timepiece.

The clean stream  keeps flowing

Streamliner Perpetual Calendar © H.Moser & Cie

Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

Case: steel, domed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 120m
Dimensions: 42.3mm in diameter, 11mm thick
Movement: mechanical, hand-wound, Caliber HMC 812, 2.5 Hz, 7-day power reserve, hours, minutes, seconds, power-reserve indication, perpetual calendar with big date and month, movement-side leap-year display
Dial: gradient black, sunburst, applied luminescent indices, Globolight luminescent hands
Bracelet: steel, single link, integrated, steel folding clasp

The watchmaking field is busier exploring classic shapes than inventing new ones, which is why the design of the Streamliner case, bracelet and dial definitely stands out. The overall impression is a square with curved sides and rounded apices. The caseband is hollowed out and offers a satin-finished recess, which slims down the piece. The upper part is built along a wide curve. It starts at the edge of the bezel and gently rises all along the sapphire crystal. This lenticular shape is accentuated by the texture applied on the bezel. A circular satin-finish enhances the curvature and hence the impression that the profile starts on the skin and is integrated into the wrist line. Integrated indeed, since the case is inseparable from its bracelet. The upper parts of the case double as one side of the metal links. Their shape is like a mysterious mile, a double bow, or a three-dimensional wave, take your pick. What cannot be seen here, though, is that this ensemble is wonderfully comfortable. It may seem large, especially on paper, but once worn, it makes a seamless blend.

Counter-Intuitive

The original Streamliner model is the Flyback Chronograph Automatic. It was the blueprint for the whole collection. It introduced not only the design, but a number of details, including the crown at 4 o’clock. When the perpetual calendar was released, it took on that feature. The large date is also located there and the power reserve sits at the opposite end of the dial. The chronograph pushers appear on opposite sides f the case, due to the nature of Caliber HMC 902. Designed by specialist watchmaker Agenhor, this is one of the most beautiful and sophisticated chronograph movements around. Its main advantage is the fact that is has no registers. The seconds and minutes of the stopwatch part are both shown by slim, pointed central hands. At first and second glance, this layout doesn’t look like a chronograph. The back doesn’t help identify it as such either, as this movement is not at all designed like a classic one. None of the usually visible organs (clutch, clutch gear etc.) are there. It’s listed as an automatic, but even the rotor is invisible and is in fact located underneath the dial, another unusual feature enabled by the central hands construction.

The clean stream  keeps flowing

Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic © H.Moser & Cie

Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic

Case: steel, domed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 120m
Dimension: 42.3mm in diameter, 12.1mm thick
Movement: mechanical, selfwinding, caliber HMC 902, 3 Hz, 54h power reserve, hours, minutes, flyback chronograph with coaxial central seconds and minutes hand
Dial: gradient, Funky Blue, Globolight luminescent hands
Bracelet: steel, single link, integrated, steel folding clasp

Purity

H. Moser & Cie. subsequently introduced the Streamliner Centre Seconds, the most uncluttered of them all: three hands, no date and a regular 3 o’clock crown. It stood out with its Matrix Green dial, distinguished by the sunburst finish and the Fumé effect in which Moser specializes, making the dial darker around the edges. All three references share the same hands, composed of Globolight, a ceramic laced with Super-LumiNova, making it a solid luminescent material, as well as the same seconds track. Still, the case and bracelet with their aerodynamic effect remain the main attraction here. Especially on the wrist.

The clean stream  keeps flowing

Streamliner Centre Seconds © H.Moser & Cie

Streamliner Centre Seconds

Case: steel, domed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 120m
Dimensions: 40mm in diameter, 9.9mm thick
Movement: mechanical, selfwinding with solid 18K gold rotor, caliber HMC 200, 3 Hz, 72h power reserve, hours, minutes, seconds
Dial: gradient, Matrix Green, Globolight luminescent hands
Bracelet: steel, single link, integrated, steel folding clasp

 

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The brand

H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs around 60 people, has developed 14 in-house calibres to date, and produces more than 1,500 watches per year.

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