The series of three new Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute models presented at Baselworld 2017 features exotic animals from three different continents: the Caribbean flamingo, the koi carp from Asia and the majestic African lion. Each has been painstakingly painted by hand against an unusual black enamel background.
Producing an enamel dial for a watch is always a tightrope walk for the enameller. A variation in oven temperature of just a few degrees, or a second too long in the oven, can lead to disaster. For an ivory white dial, the rejection rate can be between 40% and 50%, which already goes a long way to explaining the exclusivity and cost of such pieces. For black enamel, however, where the profound darkness needs to be perfect to provide the necessary contrast for the miniature painting, the rejection rate can be as high as 80%. When the enameller’s chances of failure are four times as high as that of success, the challenge is enormous and the completion of a series of 84 watches with a deep black enamel dial by the in-house enamellers at Jaquet Droz is therefore an achievement in itself.
The black background provides a wonderful contrast for the Petite Heure Minute Flamingo and Koi Carp models in particular, where the vibrant reds, oranges and yellows leap off the dial. The koi are surrounded by reeds and water lilies that fill the dial, while the flamingo is complemented by 248 diamonds set on the case and lugs, as well as the buckle. While the 39mm case in red gold for these two models clearly aims for unisex appeal, the larger 43mm model featuring the masculine lion is more geared towards men. Here, the contrast is more subtle, as the darker brown tones blend into the black background.
All three models are powered by the Jaquet Droz calibre 2653P self-winding mechanical movement, which has a silicon balance spring and silicon pallets, as well as an 18-carat red gold oscillating mass, and offers 68 hours of power reserve. The time is displayed on a small off-centre dial at 12 o’clock by red-gold hands around a scale of Roman numerals. Each of the Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Ateliers d’Art models is a limited series of just 28 watches.
