The word “masterpiece” is so common in watchmaking, it’s easy to forget that it’s also the name of a collection. That collection, by Maurice Lacroix, is celebrating its 25th anniversary. We could leave it at that, but watch history buffs will already have spotted the paradox: 25 years ago, the watch industry was only just beginning to rise from the ashes, having been brought to its knees by quartz. Creating the Masterpiece collection in 1992 was an act of faith – a groundless and arrogant expression of confidence in a mechanical future. A quarter century later, we have to admit that it was a good call. Why? Because it was unique, for four specific reasons.
Four decades, four reasons
First, while almost all watchmakers were coalescing into big international groups, Maurice Lacroix took the risk of remaining strictly independent of these future juggernauts. Then, when the watch market had the bit between its teeth and prices went stratospheric, Maurice Lacroix was careful to retain a grounded notion of luxury, in keeping with its products, and with the expectations and resources of its clients.
The third reason was that many brands had rushed to bring the watchmaking métiers in-house, even becoming manufactures outright. This was a luxury Maurice Lacroix chose not to afford until 2006, 14 years after the first Masterpiece was launched. This focus on moderation was a major reason why the company pulled through. It’s now 45 years old. The fourth and final reason, and perhaps the most important, is that Maurice Lacroix immediately understood that, to be a Masterpiece, a watch did not necessarily need a grand complication, a minute repeater or a double tourbillon. The brand was able to bring watchmaking back to its most fundamental characteristic: mechanical creativity.
Discerning collectors
If the Masterpiece collection is still going strong today, it is because these four pillars are present in every model: they are the work of an independent company, a watch manufacture, committed to designing creative timepieces at a fair price. All watch lovers are familiar with the Square Wheel. The same goes for the Mysterious Seconds. It’s not their technical brilliance, their creativity or their originality that makes these complications special: it’s all three at once!
The two Retrogrades (Moon and Double) take common complications (time zone, moon phase, date, etc.) and rework the display to give them a unique character. The same recipe is used for one of Maurice Lacroix’s latest Masterpieces, the Gravity. It has just hours, minutes and a small second, but the dial has been completely reconfigured to give it a fresh look, alternating full and open-worked surfaces with skeletonised components.
Many more avenues to explore
What about tomorrow? There are still many horological avenues left for Maurice Lacroix to explore. Take the artistic crafts: they are generally exploited in terms of traditional skills. It might be time to dust off grand feu enamelling, for example, and see how it could be incorporated into an ultra-modern piece.
Engraving, similarly, is only seen on gold and steel. Engraving on titanium is more difficult, but the result is sublime. And what about carbon? We haven’t even touched on shapes – all the Masterpieces until now have been round. Why is that? And finally, the time has always been displayed on hands, either central or off-centre. Why not try doing away with hands altogether?
