So-called “rainbow” watches, often described as "extravagant" or derided as "bling-bling", can be polarising. Critics point to their expensive prices, while admirers celebrate their audacious style. One thing is for sure, you can’t remain neutral about them!
These dazzling colours are reputed to be tricky to incorporate in watches; the use of precious or semi-precious stones requires specific know-how, especially when creating that perfect blend of shades.
Not all watch companies have succumbed to rainbow fever, but those who have can rejoice in their colourful, cheerful creations! And so can we, as we bring you eight examples of these exuberant timepieces and offer our little suggestions of how to wear them.
On your marks, get set, RAINBOW!
Parmigiani - Tonda 1950
This Parmigiani Tonda 1950 in a 39mm pink-gold case is adorned with a rainbow bezel set with 21 pink, blue, yellow and orange sapphires, as well as 3 rubies, 6 amethysts and 6 tsavorites. The weight of all this sparkle? A total of 3.73 carats. The dazzling coloured gem-setting goes perfectly with an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial and an indigo-blue alligator strap.
With a movement only 2.6mm thick, the Tonda 1950 owes its slenderness to an off-centred micro rotor set directly into the mainplate.
But how do I wear it?
The sleek design of this timepiece lends itself well to a trip to Positano, on the Amalfi coast of southern Italy, cruising along on a Riva boat, embodying the ultimate in Italian chic. Can you already smell the bergamot-scented air?
Jacob & Co - Brilliant Full Baguette Rainbow
Something a little more visible (understatement of the year), the 44mm Brilliant Full Baguette Rainbow is dressed in a radiant 18-carat white-gold dial and case bearing no fewer than 226 multi-coloured baguette-cut sapphires.
Art and precision are the watchwords of this piece, which is entirely covered with precious stones. The sophisticated setting technique used to position each stone is invisible to the naked eye, creating an unbroken rainbow of gems in shimmering colours.
But how do I wear it?
The ultimate in elegance, this limited-edition timepiece of 18 pieces should be worn at the very pinnacle of summer gala evenings. Imagine this on your wrist at the Red Cross Ball, which takes place at the end of July in Monaco. This piece is a perfect fit with a night of musical performances by acclaimed artists, spectacular fireworks to rival the impact of your watch, and a dinner of adamantine quality.
Louis Vuitton - Tambour Slim Rainbow
For those who are not gemstone enthusiasts but still long for a bold slash of colour, this Tambour Slim Rainbow is for you!
This watch houses a hypnotic dial, a reflection of a true technical feat calling for 42 individually applied coats of paint. The values of Louis Vuitton, such as the celebration of travel and freedom, are integrated within this sporty-chic watch. Its 39mm case is treated with a black PVD coating, emphasising the bright rainbow of the "X" motif in the middle of the dial.
But how do I wear it?
The Slim Rainbow Tambour is an all-purpose wristwatch for adventurers and travellers, so what better choice for a trip on a private jet (well accessorised with a personalised Louis Vuitton carry-all and the best of the Maison’s pre-Fall collection, of course)?
Corum - Golden Bridge Round 43
The Golden Bridge collection, launched in 1980, still fascinates today, thanks to its legendary baguette movement, which is showcased in full splendor by sapphire crystals on both sides of the case. The skeletonised elements surrounding the movement were inspired by the architecture of the Golden Gate Bridge, and highlight the symmetry and intricacy of the mechanism.
Its round 43mm white-gold case is surmounted by a bezel set with 68 multicoloured baguette-cut sapphires weighing 4.50 carats. Peridots, eight tsavorites, and five rubies complete the rainbow palette, bringing the total gemstone weight 6.56 carats.
But how do I wear it?
Made in only 18 pieces, this emblematic model can be worn during long lazy afternoons of relaxation. In alignment with the verdant green strap and architectural movement, choose an urban oasis where lush vegetation meets skyscrapers. In the Golden Gate Park of San Francisco or the Gardens By The Bay in Singapore, the Corum Golden Bridge Round 43 “Rainbow” model will blend perfectly with the surroundings.
Chopard - Impériale Joaillerie
Intriguing, impressive, radiant — these are the words that come to mind when we contemplate this rainbow of 581 baguette-cut sapphires in various shades. This aesthetic gem requires more than 1,000 hours of work, and is equipped with the automatic Chopard 01.03-C calibre, that we can see thanks to a transparent caseback (as if the watch needed to be any more alluring).
The pink-gold Imperiale Jewellery is intended to be sensual and feminine, a hymn to modern women.
But how do I wear it?
On the famous red carpet of the Cannes International Film Festival, the world’s most glamorous event, of course! Chopard has has been the official partner of the Festival since 1998, and there is no doubt that your wrist, with this piece on it will draw all eyes and dazzle the Croisette.
Audemars Piguet - Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balancier Squelette
The Royal Oak, the flagship timepiece of Audemars Piguet, takes on new colours with 32 baguette-cut sapphires. The combination of multi-coloured gems and an 18k white-gold case gives this Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Skeleton Balance a bold and sporty effect.
But how do I wear it?
The hammered bracelet sparkles even without gemstones, highlighting the radiance of the coloured sapphires. The sporty-chic vibe is ideal for a day out on the links, perhaps a friendly (or competitive, depending on the kind of friends you have!) game of golf. Definitely count on distracting your fellow golfers with this splendid piece, with its gem-set bezel and mesmerising skeleton movement. Hopefully this leads to a number of stray balls in your favour!
Zenith – Defy El Primero 21
This limited edition released in Greater China is available in 50 copies. A chronograph dressed in festive colours, this Defy El Primero 21 has a rainbow bezel embellished with 2.12 carats of sapphires, bringing out the richness of an exceptional mechanism. This ultra-precise automatic El Primero 9004 calibre gives the hours, minutes and small seconds with a chronograph function. A symbol of performance and reliability, the El Primero measures times to the nearest hundredth of a second, thanks to the 293-component movement with a dedicated chronograph balance beating at 50Hz (360,000vph).
But how do I wear it?
With its sober design that still bears a sparkling halo, it is the perfect watch for a summer cruise, perhaps around the Greek islands. From Santorini to Mykonos, this Defy El Primero 21, with its bright rainbow colours, will shine in the azure waters of the Aegean Sea.
Hublot - One Click Rainbow King Gold
Once again, Hublot breaks new ground and pushes the boundaries of watchmaking innovation with the One Click Rainbow King Gold. This colourful unisex piece is set with 473 precious and semi-precious brilliant-cut stones (rubies, pink, blue, yellow and orange sapphires, amethysts, blue topazes and tsavorites) on its dial and case. The 18-carat pink gold bezel is set with 48 baguette-cut coloured stones.
The colour gradations on the rubber and alligator leather strap reveal the brilliance of the precious stones and the elegance of the 39mm 18k pink-gold case.
But how do I wear it?
This Hublot timepiece is a must-have for an unforgettable evening aboard a megayacht in St Tropez. Fireworks, the hottest DJ of the season, free-flowing champagne… After all, this city is known for its out-of-this-world evenings where anything could happen! Fortunately, this timepiece is water-resistant to 100m in case of any marine misadventures (although your designer outfit might suffer).
So yes, rainbow watches have shaken up the watchmaking microcosm, but as you can see, more and more brands are daring to go beyond the classic palette of colours. Would you let yourself be tempted?
And as French writer Gustave Flaubert once wrote, "Summer is an opportunity for comedy", so dare to try this trend, don't take yourself seriously and — break all the codes!
