2023 promises to be a year for anniversaries, and that of the TAG Heuer Carrera is one of the most hotly anticipated. Why? Because this watch has a storied past, a long list of awards, a number of cult pieces, and a robust manufacture, but not (yet) the price levels of its peers. Let’s take a look at the competition: the Rolex Daytona (also 60 this year), the Fifty Fathoms (70) and the Royal Oak, which celebrated its half-century last year. In this highly exclusive landscape, the Carrera stands out as an iconic timepiece that’s still affordable.
Three months ago, in Singapore, the manufacture unveiled a first chronograph in a limited series of 600, inspired by the reference 2447 SN from the late 1960s. This handsome timepiece with its “panda” dial came with a hand-wound Valjoux chronograph movement and, unsurprisingly, sold out within a few hours.
Three new timepieces join the catalogue
So let’s take a look at the three new Carrera models. They share a number of features, beginning with the stunning sapphire glass box crystal. As well as referencing its vintage heritage, the glass box also meets the brief of providing perfect legibility from every angle, which has always been a priority for the Carrera. But that’s where the nostalgia ends. Because fundamentally, this piece is about facing the future, as imagined by Guy Bove (formerly of Ferdinand Berthoud and Breitling).
He has designed a piece that is both bold and aesthetically rich. Complementing the blue dial with its unusual circular satin-brushed finish, the two chronograph counters have a distinctive raised flange that attracts the eye, and sloping sides that further pull in the gaze.
The minutes track around the circumference of the dial is set on a steeply cambered flange, reminiscent of the Monthléry motor racing circuit. It is punctuated by applied indices on two levels, complete with luminescent dots, but the rest of the surface is mirror-polished. The date window at 6 o’clock effects a similar vertical pull, positioned under the beautifully elegant legend: “Swiss”. You don’t see that very often.
Brothers, not twins
The second version is noticeably different, with not two counters but three, in a “reverse panda” configuration. The grey subdials have a pronounced circular sunray finish, while the dial itself is plain.
The date window has been switched to an atypical position at 12 o’clock which, although initially disorientating, provides a natural balance to the overall layout. Finally, while the strap on the blue version is made of traditional matt leather, the black model comes with a perforated strap, heightening its automotive styling.
Say goodbye to the Heuer 02 calibre
Each of these pieces, in the tastefully moderate diameter of 39 mm, has been added to the catalogue. Not only does this restrained size underline the watches’ elegance, it means they are equally suitable for women and men. Both are equipped with a new version of the famous Heuer 02 calibre – now renamed the TH20-00 – which is visible through the sapphire caseback.
TAG Heuer’s director of movements, Carole Forestier (the brains behind some of Cartier’s finest complications), is responsible for this technical evolution. She revised the movement’s winding mechanism, which is now bidirectional. In another welcome development, the power reserve has been extended to 80 hours. The finish of the movement parts has also had an overhaul. The calibre TH-20 joins the TH30 and TH50 calibre families that are already in production.
New COSC Tourbillon
The final new version features a chronometer-certified tourbillon. This piece is more extrovert, with a 42 mm diameter and a steel case, and will be available shortly after the other two pieces, in May 2023.
The distinctive blue dial is present once again, but this time a generous aperture at 6 o’clock reveals the tourbillon. Unlike the simpler chronograph version, the tourbillon model features a long central hand in bright orange – a bold choice.
This sportier, more ostentatious timepiece nevertheless provides a telling reminder that a chronometer-certified tourbillon such as this is rarely found outside a more modern 45-mm diameter. This isn’t something you see every day.
