Wide-open spaces – whether they are oceans, the poles or the Amazonian rainforest – are increasingly a place for us to escape on small or big adventures away from a world that is more and more standardised and controlled. Aside from challenging ourselves and abandoning our comforts, adventures also allow us to rediscover the joys and heartbreaks of freedom. They also allow us to learn and develop, giving us a chance that few other people have.
The watch industry has always had close links with the world of adventure. Watches have accompanied mankind on expeditions to the bottom of the oceans and the lunar desert. I’m not going to list all these exploits here but instead ask a more philosophical question: why do we find these “adventurer” watches so appealing? Is it a purely horological fascination or does it convey something more profound?
Naturally, a watch that has endured exceptional conditions has values that appeal to collectors: reliability, practicality, solidity and innovation. Beyond these pure technical considerations, these watches are also witnesses to a specific moment in history. They have often accompanied the first-ever people to do something and are thus forever associated with major human achievements.
The adventurer’s watch therefore combines technical excellence with human achievement. It cannot help but spark curiosity and interest. But it also brings us something much more profound, something that we don’t talk about very often, yet something that we all share: dreams and imagination.
The times we live in are particularly troubling. They involve waves of changes in society, the economy and politics the likes of which we have never seen before. What is even more surprising is the speed of these changes and our inability to see them coming. You might think that this kind of discussion is far removed from a classic article about a watch. But in this case it is the very heart of the matter.
Our environment is a subtle – yet sometimes terrorising – mixture of order and chaos, two things that do not necessarily go well together. On the one hand, our increasingly standardized society pushes us to look for more and more means of escape. On the other, we seek to take control of the chaos. It’s a very delicate balance.
It is the very junction between these two feelings that pushes us towards these adventurer watches. They allow us to combat our fears and enter an imaginary world for many (and a real one for few) where control and freedom go hand-in-hand: a world of individual adventure and men and women who push their boundaries – and thus the boundaries of society.
These watches are therefore conduits for our imagination.
They allow us to see ourselves in the place of these exceptional human beings. They are a form of continuity of their adventures, an extension of the feelings experienced by those who attempt them. In buying one of these watches, we put our feet on an ice sheet or dip a flipper into the ocean’s depths.
We take part, vicariously, in adventure films, fighting baddies as part of special forces or winning extreme sports competitions.
To fulfil our needs for escape, we have several options:
First, there are vintage watches, whether “genuine” adventure watches (for example, the Rolex Comex), or contemporary adventurers (the Omega Speedmaster 321). They can also be former military watches worn in the conflicts of the 20th century (Seiko MACV-SOG) or watches that have sailed the oceans. The choice is huge…
Then there are contemporary watches associated with exceptional events.
The dynamism of adventurers continues and a number of modern watches accompany people on adventures that are as original as they are varied. All brands, whether established or new, follow this trend. And every time, the same recipe works: the transfer takes place, a little bit of the exceptional enters our everyday life and imagination gets the better of rationality.
There you have it! Adventure watches are much more than the sum of their mechanical parts. Panerai has understood this, and pushes the boundaries of our imagination even further…
Why Panerai?
I have already discussed the link between war and Panerai in a previous article. The brand was born in – and by – war. But the military origin of Panerai watches also brings them closer to the world of adventure.
It’s very rare for a brand to be so focused on a particular style and mission. Panerai has lived and grown because of its military history and its ability to make this accessible to anyone, even taking out the drama. The transition from war to adventure, however, came later and more slowly.
And, bizarrely, this transition came thanks to the cinema…
Panerai’s place in our collective imagination owes a lot to Sylvester Stallone and the place he gave to the Luminor in films like Daylight. Then, marketing – and fashion – took over to make Panerai a watch of heroes and on-screen adventurers. We have seen a Panerai on the wrist of The Rock (San Andreas) and the vintage mercenaries in The Expendables. On the big screen, at least, Panerais quickly became the watch of adventurers, generating growing interest.
As the brand grew, and society evolved, its strong military connections gradually became a potential problem. Panerai needed to continue building on the reputation of solidity of these large diver’s watches, but take them away from an image that some might have considered too “violent”.
And so the path to adventure began.
A meeting with one of the world’s biggest adventurers was all that was needed for Panerai to set off to explore some of the most hostile environments on our planet.
With the Panerai PAM00985, Panerai pushes this partnership even further, by bringing imagination and reality together.
Welcome to the ice sheet!
The Panerai PAM00985 : polar exploration
At the SIHH 2019, Panerai’s Submersible became a fully-fledged collection. These solid watches are positioned as Panerai’s adventurer’s watches. They are more imposing than the “classic” Luminor and Radiomir models, like Panerais on steroids. They are even more extreme than some of the historical versions.
By strengthening its Submersible offering, Panerai wants to consolidate its position – and its image – as the brand for adventurers. It still uses the Sub to test innovation, especially for new materials like bronze (which has now become a classic but owes its renaissance to Panerai), BMG-TECH™ or Carbotech™.
With this Mike Horn limited edition, Panerai breaks new ground.
Although it shares the Submersible DNA, everything about this watch is new.
First of all, the case material. Panerai has innovated yet again and offers the first watch to be made of recycled titanium. This particular titanium has the same lightweight yet robust properties of the metal, but adds an eco-friendly dimension to it. The watch is still huge (47mm) but the titanium makes it much easier to wear.
Then there is the general design.
The engraved bezel is totally new and gives the Submersible a more modern look. This choice creates an interesting break with the classic Panerai design and seems to push the watch into the future. It’s an impression that is confirmed by the use of a very interesting dial. It still uses the sandwich construction, but in an even more contemporary way. Furthermore, the small seconds is directly inspired by the Panerai LAB ID presented last year.
The sapphire crystal of our Panerai Mike Horn has also been redesigned. The “PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE” and “AUTOMATIC 300m/1000ft” inscriptions are no longer on the dial but engraved on the crystal instead. This gives it the watch more depth and more simplicity. It’s an interesting choice.
The new bezel is more complicated and has greater presence. So it was important to simplify the dial to lighten the style of the Mike Horn and Panerai understood this perfectly. Well done!
The hands, however, are exactly the same as those found on other models. They are broad and extremely legible.
Other changes to note are the superb solid case back, which depicts a beautiful aquatic scene. It’s just a shame that it’s hidden from view! The strap made out of recycled PET plastic is also eco-friendly and its general look fits perfectly with this modern style.
So this is a magnificent adventurer’s watch which takes the Submersible into the future and the wide open.
But besides being a beautiful watch, the limited-edition version of the Mike Horn Submersible is exceptional for one other reason.
Panerai is offering an entirely new approach to the notion of a limited edition. Only 19 of this PAM00985 are available. The main reason? It is because it is associated with a genuine adventure. Forget the imaginary and say hello to the real world. The few lucky owners of this watch will actually set off to discover the poles with Mike Horn. The details of this extreme journey are not yet known, but it’s a fantastic stroke of marketing that will have people talking for months to come.
But for those who cannot afford this beautiful watch, don’t worry!
Panerai is actually offering two versions of this Mike Horn watch, the limited-edition PAM00985 and the standard PAM00984. Apart from the expedition associated with the PAM00985, the main difference between the two is their colour.
The Mike Horn 985 has a grey dial and a dark-blue strap, while the non-limited version comes in the classic Panerai black. The SuperLuminova colour is also different: blue for the 985 and green for the 984.
What does the devil’s advocate think?
Ecology, protection of the environment, polar ice… the devil doesn’t like any of this, so he can only be opposed to this watch…
But for us mere mortals the Panerai PAM00985 is an interesting watch with a unique design.
So how could it be even better?
The 19-piece limited edition – and its price – puts this version out of reach for the majority, who would have to opt for the no less seductive Panerai PAM00984. I would have loved for Panerai to offer this version in 42mm. Since last year, Panerai has offered its Sub in a smaller diameter than the 47mm of the first versions. This size is ideal and a 42mm Mike Horn would really be something exceptional.
We can dream. After all, that’s what makes adventurers who they are!
How to wear the Panerai Submersible PAM 985 like an adventurer?
There is no place for a suit or a shirt here. It’s all about looking like an adventurer. You need a pair of Dolomite 54 LH Canvas on your feet. I love the red model, which gives your style a touch of relief.
The trousers could be a SILENCR™ Rogue Kargo by Kuhl, ideally in the colour Dark Roast.
To complete this comfortable look, go for a practical but stylish jacket. But don’t forget that you might end up heading for the poles. So try a Parajumpers Polar Equipment Musher (in orange, but in this case avoid the Dolomite in red and go for a pair in khaki), or – if the weather is nicer – a Leroy bodywarmer from the same brand.
Underneath, wear a T-shirt (why not a Sunspel in off white?), and a Gran Sasso cashmere sweater.
As an accessory, the indispensable backpack, and to match the modern style of the PAM00985 Mike Horn, I would suggest a Boblbee GTX with its unusual look.
Once you’re ready you just need to decide which direction to head off in and for which kind of adventure. With your robust Panerai Submersible PAM00985 or PAM00984 on your wrist!
