SIAR 2020 Optimism grows as the creativity shows
New brands, new creations of the established ones with imaginative designs and mechanisms, made the most of the visitors' attention at the SIAR 2020. (Part 2 of a 2-part report)
Read the first part of our exclusive SIAR 2020 report here.
The first day of the SIAR surprised everyone with the unexpected enthusiasm of the retailers and end customers. We are continuing with our tour around other extraordinaire pieces by Jacob & Co. The unique piece “Íconos de México” Opera Pancho Villa was also present, with its beautiful translating movement as well as a musical box that renders the mexican nathional anthem, a watch that we were fortunate enough to admire in the –precious– metal.
Ulysse Nardin developed an interesting project together with his distributor in this country to create ten unique pieces within its Classico collection with a hand-painted cover with the miniature of a famous self-taught artist with a illustrious and long career: Jorge Aviña, who painted ten representative scenes of the history of Mexico, which were reduced and reproduced by the artisans of Ulysse Nardin in Switzerland to create five pieces with three hands and five more with tourbillon at six o'clock, so that the planning of the paintings took into account the circular format, the central area for the hands and in the lower part for those that would adorn the tourbillon watches.
Classico © Ulysse Nardin
These watches were purchased almost immediately and practically none reached the SIAR showcases, although we will be able to exclusively photograph one that will arrive at the end of November.
Charles Girardier was another of the young firms that were looking for a representative in Mexico and brought to SIAR their piece nominated for the GPHG 2020, the Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse "Fleur de Sel" whose enameled dial also shows "Silver Paillons" an ancient technique rescued by its artisans that consists of the application of decorations using fine gold or silver leaves. In addition to the 60-second tourbillon, at 12 o'clock we find an automaton that changes position by gravity, and that arms or disarms the monogram of Charles Girardier, but which can be personalized with any initials desired.
Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse © Charles Girardier
Jaeger-LeCoultre showed off his evocative Polaris Mariner Memovox tool-watch, an authentic diver's watch that was seen for the first time on this side of the world, from an era when a diver's life could depend on a watch to alert him when to surface.
Polaris Memovox © Jaeger Le-Coultre
IWC apparently placed with customers two of its Big Pilot Constant Force Tourbillon Racing in Ceratanium, a piece that aroused great interest among enthusiasts; as well as the Odysseus by A. Lange & Söhne with a rubber bracelet that was equally a success among the attendees who soon finished with the available supply of this piece.
Big Pilot Constant Force Tourbillon Racing © IWC
The Excalibur Automatic in pink gold by Roger Dubuis debuted at SIAR with a new rubber bracelet decorated with “digital camo” that further distances this piece from any conventionalism, as well as the limited edition piece created for the Mexican boxer Saúl “El Canelo” Álvarez world champion in several weight divisions in WBC, WBO and CMB, highlights the strap made of leather used for boxing gloves and the characteristic tones used by the champion.
Trilobe showed us a different way of showing the time by changing the perspective, but with much more than just a different way of reading the time, but also with a movement of its own manufacture with an architectural conception that contrasts with the apparent anarchy of its dial. The Matinaux model in rose gold was proof that this young brand will soon be present in the Mexican market.
Les Matinaux rose gold © Trilobe
Louis Moinet presented his Ad Astra tourbillon, as special as the personality of Jean-Marie Schaller who perfectly embodies the Steampunk style of the brand named after the inventor of the chronograph.
Ad Astra © Louis Moinet
Panerai exhibited its mastery in advanced materials with samples from the production of its cases in Carbotech, Fibratech and in 3D printed titanium, maritime technology and tradition, as well as a comfortable environment for the visitors with a terrace overlooking the great avenue “Paseo de la Reforma” in Mexico City.
Luminor Marina Carbotech © Panerai
Clockmakers extraordinaires Lépeé showed its usually crazy and wonderful arrange of mechanical wonders, with some of them with input of external imagination like Maximillian Büsser, like the imposing Balthazar time-telling robot and of course the amazing tripod clock.
Girard-Perregaux took a trip to Mexico's historical past by reinterpreting “La Esmeralda”, a three-bridge tourbillon that won the gold medal in 1889 and belonged to President Porfirio Díaz at the beginning of the 20th century. This piece was recreated in the shape of a wristwatch, preserving the three functional gold bridges and an engraved carriage that evokes the original piece.
Piaget's Limelight Gala collection was presented with new versions equipped with an automatic caliber, not only with a quartz movement, but also the limited edition with a green PVD dial and rose gold indexes and hands of the Polo S.
Limelight Gala © Piaget
The amount of people in the venues of each brand was restricted to a certain number of people at the same time, as well as the visits of the guests adjusted to schedules to choose, so that social distancing could be maintained without major problem, which was carried out in a very orderly manner.
Vacheron Constantin brought his heavy artillery to Mexico with his Traditionelle Tourbillon Minute Repeater, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin, and the Overseas Tourbillon with its deep blue dial. Purnell's two spherical tourbillions immediately caught the eye, so there were plenty of spectators eager to learn more about this brand that visited Mexico for the first time.
It was a delight to witness how the spirit of the watchmaking community improved as the hours passed on each of the three days of this great horological festival, despite the mandatory masks, a greater number of smiles were perceptible at the end of the event. At the end, the HYT hydraulics whose new Flow versions showed that their thing is to change the conception of watchmaking, by incorporating an LED lighting system operated by a mechanical microgenerator, one of them with a diamond dome (a kind of igloo made of most beautiful form of carbon) and one more with a kind of vortex from which the light comes out to illuminate the unusual watch.
Flow © HYT
According to the alphabet, Zenith goes at the end but not for lack of novelties, such as three special editions of the Defy 21, such as the one dedicated to the producer and DJ Carl Cox made of forged carbon, the Ultraviolet and the Pink Ribbon; difficult decision, personally I would have no problem wearing an ultraviolet permanently on my wrist, with its caliber capable of mechanically marking a hundredth of a second... that's how short the three days of SIAR felt, a spoonful of the optimism necessary in the watch industry, which has once again proved resilient in the face of adversity. If a push was needed to restart our industry, it is very likely this was it; the cautious optimism showed on the face of a extremely challenging year could be the start of a very needed economical recovery for the industry, and it is evident that the horological creativity and the desire for it of the end customers is still there to show us the way.
Defy 21 © Zenith
A big congratulations to SIAR Mexico and their CEO Carlos Alonso for achieving such a special event, once again.
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