The brand with an hourglass isn't accurate as one should rather say with hourglasses. Indeed, Longines are a driving force in many segments, styles and genres. But it's really in expressing the designs of its past that they excel. And those often bear the same logo as the original that's being recast. Going against Marketing 101, which dictates that the identity signs of a brand such as its name or logo are not to be interfered with, is a sign of power few can afford to display.
Longines is a prolific brand. They release at least one new collection each year on top of many Heritage-type timepieces. That's on top of a large number of variations on its existing catalog, which is abundant. There was so much to choose from, but if I had to mention the five most appealing among these hundreds of new watches, all of them would be masculine, and most would belong to the vintage category.
Take the Longines Heritage 1973 for example. This cushion-shaped chronograph has all the design cues of the early 70s, and I don't mean bell-bottom pants and 7 inches wide neckties. Ion watchmaking terms, the era had much more of a timeless design feel to it than fashion (thank heaven!). The panda dial, applied indices, strictly rectangular baton-shaped hands, the blue tachymeter scale, that watch was as beautiful to look at as it was to wear.
Or take the Skin Diver, certainly the most rugged-looking timepiece Longines has ever released. Which doesn't really say much since they are such a tame brand. A throwback to the 1959 original, it has everything one looks for in a genuine early-days tool watch : it's matte, grainy, a little rough, strictly functional and extraordinarily appealing.
Still, Longines is a strong contender in the contemporary watch category, where nostalgia doesn't apply. Among many such timepieces, one must mention the Record collection. Its many assets include an incredible price (around 2k) for a no-fuss 40mm chronometer, with a silicon hairspring and a 65-hour power reserve, which also happens to be slender and beautifully finished.
Another proof comes from within the Master collection, the round-case, rounded-bezel, textured-dial classical one. Among its very many variations, this Annual Calendar was some sort of an epitome. It came with a noble complication, the usual good looks and a jaw-dropping price, still under the 2k mark.
Any Top 5 needs an odd one out. For Longines, it hails from the Conquest V.H.P. Collection. The three-hander is a quartz-powered sporty timepiece, which features a Very High Precision movement. It stays under the 5 seconds error rate a year threshold... in statistical terms, that's a lot of zeros, as opposed to its very very fair price.
