Condensed short history
When it was first launched in 1991 under the name SIHH, the event brought together just five brands, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Piaget, Gérald Genta, and Daniel Roth, across 4,500 square meters. By 2015, it had expanded significantly, hosting 16 brands over 45,000 square meters. Alongside the full roster of Richemont maisons, Audemars Piguet and Parmigiani Fleurier joined the lineup, while independent watchmakers such as Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey began to make their presence felt.
The Covid pandemic marked a turning point. In 2019, 35 brands were exhibiting, but by 2020 the fair, renamed Watches & Wonders, had shifted entirely online, a format that continued in 2021. At the same time, Baselworld, weakened by its governance, saw major players including Rolex, Tudor, Chanel, Chopard, and Patek Philippe withdraw, leading to its eventual demise. This upheaval ushered in a new era for Watches and Wonders, which emerged as the leading global watchmaking event. By 2022, 38 brands were gathered in Geneva, highlighted by the return of Van Cleef & Arpels and the arrival of Grand Seiko, the first Japanese brand to join the show.
Watches and Wonders 2026
Today, Watches and Wonders stands as the undisputed benchmark of the watchmaking world, with 66 exhibiting brands. In addition to the Richemont maisons, industry pillars such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chopard, and Chanel remain central, now joined by LVMH brands, including Bvlgari since 2025, illustrating the event’s continued expansion.
The 2026 edition is notably marked by the return of Audemars Piguet, absent since the Covid period, a possible sign of renewed unity within the industry. The show’s international dimension continues to grow, with the arrival of Credor, Seiko’s high-end Japanese brand, previously reserved for its domestic market.
France is also reinforcing its presence, with B.R.M Chronographes and March LA.B joining the lineup. German watchmaking makes its mark with the debut of Sinn Spezialuhren, alongside the ever-present A. Lange & Söhne. Perhaps the strongest signal of the fair’s global openness comes with the inclusion of Behrens, an independent brand and the first Chinese watchmaker to take part in Watches & Wonders.
The steady rise of independents
Remaining true to its role as a showcase for global watchmaking trends, Watches and Wonders continues to embrace independent brands. This year welcomes Corum, Bianchet, and Charles Girardier, each bringing a distinct creative identity. The 2026 edition also sees the return of Favre-Leuba, now under the ownership of India’s Titan Group.
L’Épée 1839 also makes a remarkable entrance, presenting horological creations that fuse technical expertise with métiers d’art, crafting pieces that tell imaginative and captivating stories.
Ultimately, the 2026 edition confirms Watches and Wonders’ ongoing growth, further strengthening its international reach and openness to the public, helping to share the artistry of fine watchmaking with an ever broader audience.
