The AI machines of the 18th century
Pierre-Jaquet Droz set-up as a watch maker in the late 18th century but, in order to sell his wares more easily, he began to make remarkably realistic automaton figures to fascinate and woo the kings and emperors of Europe and the far east who he knew had the potential to spend huge sums.
In a way, the creations of Jaquet-Droz were the AI machines of 250 years ago – large-scale figures such as ‘The Writer’, a mechanical boy with a programmable ‘memory’ that could be set to write on paper with a quill pen using real ink.
Jaquet-Droz also crafted a woman playing a keyboard instrument, a draughtsman working on plans and a clock featuring a shepherd playing a flute while carrying a basket of apples.
When the clock struck, the shepherd’s dog came faithfully running – but when a human admirer touched the apples, the dog would bark and growl.
High-Quality - not 'High Volume'
Those early years have never been forgotten by the modern-day Jaquet-Droz brand (which was acquired by the mighty Swatch Group at the turn of this century) and it continues to make spectacular automaton watches in the low volumes that place it firmly in the group’s ‘prestige’ portfolio.
Indeed, ‘high volumes’ are not a possibility for a brand that makes such complex watches as, for example, the ‘Charming Bird’ which features a tiny, hand-carved and painted bird that flies through an opening beneath a crystal dome, whistles, opens its beak and beats its wings.
The energy for the animation comes from an independent spring, wound by an additional crown – and the work that goes into making the watch means it commands a price of more than CHF 350,000.
A collaboration of rare artisanal mastery
Most recently the maison demonstrated its remarkable range of artisanal abilities through a collaboration with Wang Limin, a Chinese artist celebrated in her home country for being one of the few remaining masters of traditional Quejinxiu embroidery.
The partnership resulted in a unique piece called the Luo River Automaton which was inspired by the poem written on a culturally significant painted scroll measuring 10 metres long and dating back almost 2,000 years.
Created over the course of two years at the specific request of a VIP client, the dial of the watch combines Quejinxiu (which uses gold thread and peacock feathers) with Kesi, the traditional Chinese art of silk tapestry.
The project was overseen throughout its two-year gestation by Alain Delamuraz, the decidedly hands-on CEO of Jaquet-Droz who arrived in the job five years ago.
He quickly gave what was a failing maison a thorough shake-up, taking it away from the mainstream and aligning it as a watch maker for the fortunate few for whom only ‘unique’ will do.
And, because the key to that is the personal touch, Delamuraz worked with both the client and with Limin in order to ensure that expectations were both managed and maintained - with the result that the Luo River Automaton is a truly breathtaking work of art.
Almost all the maison’s artisans were involved with the project, which features engraving, stone cutting, painting, gem setting – and not a little haute horlogerie.
It is said to have taken two years alone to finalise the design, with the 4K camera-equipped ‘virtual studio’ through which clients can watch the different steps of the creation of their watch being used to enable Limin to remotely review and approve different ideas.
Themed on the idea of the flow of time, the automaton encompasses the poem’s elements of mankind’s quest for eternal love and immortality.
The time is displayed by two red gold hands on a dial of Imperial jade, beneath which a mother-of-pearl disc, meticulously painted to resemble a flowing river, makes a complete rotation every 30 seconds.
It carries with it a host of water lilies, one of which is set with a gemstone that changes from purple sapphire to blue sapphire and then to emerald, transforming approximately every 10 seconds.
Also caught up in the river’s flow is a fully articulated, miniature model of the Chinese mythological carp Kun, which swishes its tail and body to circle the pond every half-minute.
Perhaps the piece de resistance of the watch, however, is the team of water dragons pulling a be-winged chariot. Crafted from red gold and with hand-painted reins and ribbons measuring just one tenth of a millimetre thick, the image symbolises the journey to eternal love.
As a finishing touch (and in a first for Jaquet-Droz) Limin personally crafted a presentation case for the watch, together with four unique straps.
But while Delamuraz is fanatical about respecting the automaton roots of Jaquet Droz, he is also aware that it must be kept relevant for today and for the future through the use of modern materials, the creation of contemporary designs and by aligning it with current culture.
conclusion
You could say he wants Jaquet-Droz, this historic, artisanal brand name, to be a little bit rock ‘n’ roll – just as it was four years ago when it partnered with the Rolling Stones to create a collection of unique timepieces – including a suitably psychedelic number which fetched $150,000 at the erstwhile ONLY WATCH charity auction in 2024.
It featured a tiny set of the Stones’ instruments, made from gold, painstakingly hand-painted and mounted on a disc in the form of a 45 record.
The off-centre time display was positioned on a second disc above the instruments, while a base disc, painted in swirls of primary colours, could be made to spin like a child’s top by pressing a button in the crown of the watch.
As the disc rotates, a signature Rolling Stones tongue rises and falls – while above it, a cam in the form of a record player stylus indicates the power reserve.
The Stones may have sung ‘You Can’t always Get What You Want’ in 1969 – but you can with Jaquet Droz. When it comes to watches that do more than tell the time, at least....
FAQ
What is a Jaquet-Droz automaton watch, and what is its historical origin?
An automaton watch incorporates moving mechanical figures or scenes; Jaquet-Droz’s tradition dates to the 18th century, when founder Pierre Jaquet-Droz built lifelike automatons like “The Writer,” to impress European and Asian royalty.
What is the Jaquet-Droz Charming Bird, and how much does it cost?
The Charming Bird features a tiny hand-carved bird that flies, whistles, opens its beak and flaps its wings beneath a crystal dome; its complexity commands a price of more than CHF 350,000.
What is the Jaquet-Droz Luo River Automaton?
A unique piece created over two years with Chinese embroidery master Wang Limin, combining Quejinxiu and Kesi silk tapestry techniques, depicting a flowing river, water lilies, a mythical carp, and dragons pulling a chariot.
How much did the Jaquet-Droz x Rolling Stones watch sell for at Only Watch 2024?
This psychedelic Jaquet-Droz x Rolling Stones timepiece, featuring tiny gold instruments on a record-shaped disc, fetched $150,000 at the Only Watch charity auction in 2024.
