One of the most substantial works in recent horological literature is Beyond Time, published by Assouline. This book traces the story of Bvlgari and overflows with icons, glitz, oversized Roman monuments, and dazzling gemstones. Nearly 6 kilograms of exuberance, it defies all traditional formats — and stands in stark contrast to the "quiet luxury" trend that seems to be dominating the years ahead.
And yet? No one questions it. No commentary is necessary. Because it’s Bvlgari. The brand speaks with illuminated poise — always joyful, always unapologetically extravagant. That ineffable Italian flair allows Bvlgari to push every design dial to 10, 11, even 12, simply because it knows how. We forgive Bvlgari for everything, because whatever it does, it does with unmistakable flair.
This deliberate excess is what has carved Bvlgari’s place in the luxury landscape — and its GPHG finalist pieces are proof. In the Jewelry category, Bvlgari enters its timeless Serpenti. It’s a textbook example of brand identity. No other house has successfully and sustainably tapped into animal symbolism like Bvlgari has with the Serpenti. For 75 years, the snake — with its forked tongue — has lent itself to infinite reinventions. And in doing so, it reminds us of Bvlgari’s original métier: jeweler.
Two for (Serpen)ti
That’s why the Serpenti collaboration with MB&F is so noteworthy. Combining a 75-year-old Roman jewelry icon with a hyper-modern Swiss watch from an independent microbrand seemed improbable. Their universes, creative vocabularies, and brand stories couldn’t be more different — except for one thing: their designers. Max Büsser for MB&F. Fabrizio Buonamassa for Bvlgari. Two free spirits, unconstrained by convention.
The Octo Case
It was through this door that the two brands came together. A story of men more than of products. The result is dazzling. And that is why the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti must be properly celebrated: it reminds us that watches have territories, stakes, and limits. People do not. Even less so friendships.
That leaves the third shortlisted piece: the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. In the realm of ultra-thin watches, Bvlgari (with Concepto) has shattered all the conventions of the genre. Swept up every prize imaginable. To the point where one might have started to think the vein had run dry.
The analogy is with the long jump. Twenty years ago, a researcher demonstrated that, given the length of the human leg, maximum speed, and the force that can be generated by the tendons, it is physically impossible for a human to exceed certain jump distances. History seems to support his claim: the 8.95-meter record has remained unbroken for... 34 years.
The same could be said for the ultra-thin watch. The physical limits of material resistance mean that the thickness of a movement can’t be reduced indefinitely. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon already measures just 1.85 mm thick. Because of that wasp-waist size—and its price (635,000 CHF)—it will be worn by almost no one (20 people). The limit of the (refinement) jump seems to have been reached as well. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon stands at the summit. What lies above a summit? Italian designers will surely find something!
