Editorial Why can’t we all just get along?
While Watches & Wonders reigns at Geneva's Palexpo, the rest of the watch industry is scattered all over the place
Rewind to last week, and I am sitting in a nice suite in Geneva’s Beau Rivage Hotel with the lovely people from Claude Meylan, when the company’s owner and CEO, Philippe Belais, asked me out of the blue “Can you guys in the press not do something about this fair situation?” I can’t say I was taken by surprise by his question. I had spent the week jumping from Palexpo to downtown, from one five-star hotel to another, and then out to the satellite fair, Time to Watches, on the back of our managing editor’s scooter, in the snow no less.
Time to Watches 2022 © Time to Watches
It had started to feel like we were taking part in some kind of timed game show where we had to make it to the next appointment in record time, try on a few watches, take some wrist shots, and then start racing again!
It wasn’t always like this. The now-defunct Basel Fair used to welcome everyone: Global brands, small independents, watchmakers starting out, jewellers, pearl supplies, and more. And it was indeed this mix that made it all the more interesting. You would always discover something new and unexpected, or meet someone who knew someone who could help you in some way.
The discord can be traced back to 1991 when Cartier’s Alain-Dominique Perrin became increasingly frustrated by the smell of barbequed Schüblig and french fries at the Basel fair (I can’t say I blame him). After years of protesting, he upped and left, forming the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), taking Piaget, Baume & Mercier, and Gérald Genta with him. For the following 28 years, the watch industry had two fairs – the chic SIHH in Geneva and the all-inclusive Baselworld in Basel. When I started in the watch industry, the fairs were held back-to-back, which was at least a compromise, but then a kafuffle with the Geneva car show dates separated them to different times in the year, which was a pain for everyone.
Watches & Wonders 2022 © Watches & Wonders
The last couple of years have worsened the situation since Baselworld bit the dust (that’s a whole other story) and other fairs have gained momentum, such as Geneva Watch Days and LVMH Watch Week. International salons like Dubai Watch Week and the SIAR in Mexico have also gained momentum as the international press and retailers can meet with brands there too.
Dubai Watch Week 2021 © Dubai Watch Week
In 2020, when Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Chanel, and others announced their decision to join the Geneva show, renamed last year to Watches & Wonders, I thought maybe we could finally get back to one fair, but unfortunately, that seems to have been wishful thinking.
Since the closing of the “Geneva Race” (I have renamed it!) last week, rumors are rife with discontented groups, brands, and individuals. Hey, if I was putting up a million francs plus, I am sure I would have plenty to complain about too! But I am a dreamer and there is nothing that I would like to see more than this wonderful industry come together, solve problems together, and succeed together.
So, I don’t know if this little opinion piece will help in any way, but I’m still holding out for the day that the distance between all the brands is measured in metres and not miles! In the meantime, my helmet is in the WorldTempus office and I am ready to race!
