Early in the century, AP maintained its ultra-thin Royal Oak QPs, often with 39-mm cases and the storied calibre 2120/2800 derivatives. Modern versions like the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” limited edition in white gold, with a bold textured dial, were one of many successful variations on the theme. Following the brand, we have also seen the introduction of ceramic case architecture, giving the QP a more modern slant. Despite the trend for smaller diameters, case sizes remain at 41 mm, but with much improved ergonomics through a slimmer profile, and this year’s new 7138 calibre.
Last winter, a celebratory openworked Royal Oak in titanium was revealed for the brand’s 150th anniversary, the reference 26585XT. This offered a nod to past pocket watch heritage and skeletonization, and was a swansong for the QP calibre 5134, this time as the skeletonised 5135. As before, it showed us AP’s willingness to revisit its roots while refining modern performance. Today, we will have a closer look at a debut threesome in a hotly anticipated smaller size of 38mm. This is even more slender than the 39mm ‘Jumbo’, with a slim case and the eloquent language AP bestows on its calendar functionality. It is an engineering achievement for CEO Ilaria Resta and Audemars Piguet, a brand that seems to do no wrong this year.
Two new Royal Oak references with a distilled sense of perpetuity
Many Audemars Piguet collectors have been waiting for this, as the trend for more compact watches is still remarkably strong. The media has been speculating and wishing for this size reduction for a couple of years, even with 41mm being a strong seller in many markets. The ingrained love for the 39mm x 8.1mm ‘Jumbo’ is still tangible, and these two can even be seen as sized with a unisex audience in mind. This last observation shows in the choice of a baby blue Grand Tapisserie dial for the steel reference 26674ST, and it feels remarkably fresh. The dial is made tidier by the omission of the oft-debated week indicator, and the information-packed blue dial has the charming pop of a darker blue starlit sky at 6 o’clock in the moon phase window.
This new reference, in fact, all three, feature AP’s new calibre 7136 (7138 for the Code 11:59), a natural evolution of the 7121 found in the ‘Jumbo’16202 Royal Oak. The DNA is as clear as the tonal allure of the Reference 26684OR in 18K rose gold offers a warm, beige dial in studied contrast to the dark blue moon phase poetry. Each reference is part of a permanent collection. In addition, as Audemars Piguet has tempted us with before, there is also a limited 150-piece version of each using a vintage AP signature on the dial. This is a fun twist that brings the mind back to the eloquent design language of the brand’s nineties offerings and will appeal to vintage watch lovers. For me, it works especially well on the beige dial with its more vintage colour choice, and both steel and 18K rose gold versions share the new crown-adjusted calibre 7136. This features a 55-hour power reserve, and full calendar displays including the week and astronomical moonphase.
The Code 11:59 reaffirms its standing in compact style
The final watch in the goldilocks-sized 38mm trio is the Code 11:59, Audemars Piguet’s slice of modernity with a sleek twist. Over the past decade, Audemars Piguet has sharpened its strategy by running the Royal Oak and Code 11:59 collections in parallel, each addressing different facets of modern watchmaking. The Royal Oak continues to embody sport-luxury lineage, while the Code 11:59 offers a contemporary stage for complications. Increasingly, both lines are being refined toward smaller, more wearable dimensions, and the Reference 26441OR at 38mm also addresses the market shift that favours smaller, versatile sizes, regardless of gender. The case here is made from 18K rose gold with a circular-grained green dial in the signature embossed pattern of the collection. With a significant stylistic difference to the calendar display of its two Royal Oak cousins, the Code 11:59 retains the week indication on the satin green rehaut. That’s because at the heart is the calibre 7138 that the newer 7136 movements are based on. The slim, understated bezel of the Code 11:59 makes it look larger on the wrist, and by offering 38mm comfort, it becomes more versatile without sacrificing the mechanical depth and prestige that define the Le Brassus manufacture.
