Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces La Vallée des Merveilles™, a new series of limited-edition capsule collections dedicated to Métiers RaresTM timepieces. Over time, La Vallée des Merveilles™ will celebrate myriad aspects of nature’s boundless beauty and diversity, from the world’s last pristine places to the artistry of the most beautiful gardens. The capsules will be drawn from different collections, expressing the marvels of the natural world through the savoir-faire of the Maison’s Métiers Rares™ atelier.
The first capsule of La Vallée des Merveilles™ comprises three new editions in the Reverso One series that pay homage to the natural beauty of Hawaii and Japan. Set in cases of 18K (750/1000) pink gold or white gold, the new watches unite the codes of fine watchmaking with the artistic crafts of enamelling, paillonnage, gem-setting and lacquer work and are offered in limited editions of 20 pieces each.
The spirit of La Vallée des Merveilles™
Set amid the serene Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre has always been inspired by the beauty of nature. Nature’s way of marking the seasons – whether in the untamed nature of the forests or the cultivated nature of the gardens – has special significance for watchmakers: it is time made tangible.
Inspired by this unique setting, La Vallée des Merveilles™ pays homage to the power of nature’s beauty. From the world's untamed natural places to the delicate intricacies of a single flower, and from the exquisite disarray of wild nature to the controlled design of a garden, this beauty invokes a sense of wonder and a feeling of peace. Through the ages, artists, philosophers and poets have sought to capture the impact of nature’s beauty on the human spirit – and La Vallée des Merveilles™ honours and continues this long artistic legacy thanks to our in-house Métiers Rares™ craftsmen.
To be presented at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, the first limited-edition capsule of the La Vallée des Merveilles™ series celebrates the tropical abundance of Kauai, Hawaii – known as ‘Nature’s Garden’ – and the delicate flora of Hokkaido, Japan with three new Métiers Rares™ watches in the Reverso One collection.
The tropical splendour of Hawaii
Hawaii is a profound source of inspiration for wild nature. The islands rise from the ocean with volcanic power, where lava fields meet lush rainforests and waterfalls carve their way through ancient cliffs. The land feels alive, constantly evolving, reminding us that nature is not static but fiercely creative. Our designers reimagined this place beyond reality, through imagination, with two Métiers Rares™ expressions.
On the back of the Reverso One ‘Hibiscus Syriacus’, an oneiric scene gathering a hovering Akialoa sipping nectar from a blue hibiscus flower.
The image is composed of two separate sections arranged on two levels. The background level, representing the sky, features wavy engraved lines that add visual depth beneath multiple layers of vivid blue lacquer, applied to independent components. On the upper level, directly hollowed out of the case metal, the bird and flowers are executed entirely in Grand Feu champlevé enamel, fired at up to 800° Celsius. For the highest execution, the enameller combines two techniques: the bird is created through miniature painting using 9 colours of metal oxide pigments while the foliage is made of multiple layers of opaque and translucent enamel. The gradient effect is the result of the association of 10 different enamel colours. The pistil of the lower hibiscus flower is accentuated with 24K gold-leaf (999/1000) paillonné enamel. Once completed, the two sections are fitted together like a mosaic with absolute precision to create a seamless image. The 18K pink gold (750/1,000) case sparkles with 335 grain-set diamonds and a shiny blue alligator strap matches the colour of the blue lacquer. For those seeking a more sumptuous jewellery look, the watches are offered with the alternative of an 18K pink gold (750/1,000) bracelet set with an additional 384 diamonds.
In a second homage to Hawaii’s tropical beauty, the pink gold case of the Reverso One ‘Hibiscus Rosa’ features an Akialoa poised over a vivid red hibiscus flower, emblematic symbol of Hawaii. Representing hours of meticulous enamelling work, the bird, flower and rich tropical greenery are created in Grand Feu champlevé enamel fired at up to 800° Celsius – symbols of nature’s beauty in vivid tones of red, blue and green that are subtly graduated to create a three-dimensional effect and impression of movement. The pistil of the hibiscus flower is accentuated with 24K gold-leaf (999/1,000) paillonné enamel. The red enamel is a challenge to obtain; the enameller needs to master multiple firings at different temperatures given that metal oxides can quickly turn brown. No less than 9 layers of enamel are required to obtain these vivid colours. Around the enamel work, snow-set diamonds come into play, enhancing the design with light and brilliance. The snow-setting technique involves individually setting 489 diamonds of 9 different sizes directly into the metal, each held by microscopic beads, allowing the stones to appear randomly scattered. The technical mastery also lies in the decoration of a curved surface; a challenge the artisans must overcome to preserve the uninterrupted flow of the motif. When worn on the front, the delicate motif preview on both sides of the dial is an invitation to swivel the timepiece to discover the entire motif. In total, no less than 130 hours of Métiers RaresTM work are required to decorate the case of the timepiece.
The 18K pink gold (750/1,000) bracelet is set with an additional 384 diamonds to create a river of light around the wrist, requiring additional 60 hours of gem-setting work. As an alternative to the High Jewellery look of the fully diamond-set bracelet, the watch can be delivered with a shiny red alligator strap.
The delicate beauty of Japan
In springtime, Japan is swathed in an exquisite cloak of pink cherry blossom – a magical spectacle lasting only a couple of weeks. A motif in art and literature since ancient times, sakura signifies much more than just the arrival of spring and the renewal of life: its fleeting nature is a poetic metaphor for human existence, in which every ending is the beginning of something new. The untamed nature of Hokkaido is a source of inspiration given its vast landscapes, rich biodiversity and deep-rooted cultural traditions. The Reverso One ‘Sakura’ celebrates this natural grace and beauty.
On the back of the Reverso One ‘Sakura’ a white, red-crowned crane stands at the edge of a lake beneath a branch of cherry blossoms. Complemented by the cool glow of the 18K white gold (750/1,000) case, the pink blossoms, the green reeds in the foreground and the red-crowned crane’s head, legs and principal wing feathers are created in Grand Feu champlevé enamel, while the crane’s body and upper wing feathers are snow-set with diamonds. The crane is brought to life with the miniature painting technique, allowing precision. The enameller crafts his own brushes to capture the smallest details, and remarkably, the neck and down feathers are painted with a single-hair brush. The Maison’s gem-setter has used the snow-setting technique with coloured gemstones for the first time, mixing two different shades of blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds to evoke the sparkle of sunlight on the water of the lake. The setting of the 269 diamonds and 395 sapphires represents a total of 125 hours of gem-setting work. The watch is presented on a shiny blue alligator strap that complements the blue-green tones of the case decoration.
Showcasing outstanding artistic craftsmanship
The new Reverso One designs give full rein to the artistry and skills of the Métiers Rares™ atelier, with enamellers and gem-setters working closely together in a carefully coordinated process that may take weeks and even months. It is by bringing the different crafts together in a dedicated atelier within the Manufacture that such close collaboration is made possible.
The flowers and birds on the reverse side of the watches are created using Grand Feu champlevé enamel, a technique that involves hollowing various shapes out of the 18K gold base (750/1,000), leaving only fine ribs of metal that form the outline of the image. The hollows are then filled, one thin layer at a time using either metal oxides or opaque or translucent enamel and fired at up to 800° Celsius after every layer to fuse and solidify the enamel and bring out the colour. The mystery and magic of Grand Feu enamel is that the final colours created by the high-temperature firing are often unpredictable, and certain hues are very difficult to achieve – such as the vivid red on the Hibiscus Rosa flowers. It is only with many years of practice that enamellers can begin to anticipate the results with any degree of accuracy. The two Hibiscus models also feature paillonné enamel on the pistils of the flowers – a highly specialised craft in which fragments of 24K gold leaf (999/1,000) are cut to match the exact dimensions of the design, laid in place on the gold base then topped with multiple layers of translucent enamel. It is only after the enamel work is completed that the gem-setter can begin working.
For the designs on the ‘Hibiscus Rosa’ and ‘Sakura’ models, the snow-setting technique was used for the precious stones. Although the different sizes of stone appear to be set in random order, the process is extremely demanding, with the gem-setter choosing the size and exact position that will virtually eliminate the visible presence of the metal base and create an unbroken expanse of light and sparkle. In further testament to the gem-setter’s mastery, the diamond setting on all three watches wraps seamlessly around the curved case sides, from the back to the bezel.
The signature Reverso One dial united with Fine Watchmaking
The discreet elegance of the Reverso One dial creates a beautiful contrast with the intricate and vividly coloured caseback decoration. Brackets define the four corners of the dial, framing black numerals in the signature Reverso One floral font, which are transfer-printed onto the softly glowing mother-of-pearl background. In keeping with the collection’s design codes, the winding crown is reverse-set with a diamond. Commensurate with the beauty of the decoration, the watches are equipped with the in-house Calibre 846. With a power reserve of 50 hours, the manually wound movement comprises 93 components and is shaped to fit the rectangular Reverso One case.
As the first capsule of La Vallée des Merveilles™, the three new Reverso One timepieces pay exquisite tribute to the beauty and wonders of nature, while also celebrating La Grande Maison’s talented watchmakers, designers and artisans who transform these wonders into miniature works of art.
