More than a few founders of upstart brands have set-out to show that good quality, Swiss-made watches don’t need to cost a fortune - but not many have busted the myth quite so decisively as Thomas Baillod, who just took his value offer even further with the BA111OD Chapter 7 Skeleton Anthracite.
Born and raised in La Chaux-de-Fonds, right in the heart of Switzerland’s ‘watch valley’, Mr. Baillod set-out to disrupt the industry back in 2019 when he launched his ‘BA111OD’ dial name with the Chapter 1.1, a double-balance, open-worked three-hander priced at just 320 CHF.
Rethinking the Business of Swiss Watchmaking
As well as making a mockery of traditionally high mark-ups, industry veteran Baillod (who previously worked for various brands including Louis Erard and Maurice Lacroix) wanted to re-think the way watches are sold with his ‘Affluendor’ concept that relied on existing owners bringing-in new buyers.
That subsequently morphed into his ‘we-commerce’ idea, which aims to ‘blend the emotional connection of traditional commerce with the reach and agility of digital platforms.’
Seven years on and BA111OD has grown from being an operation run out of the founder’s garage to one with an eight-strong team working from a proper atelier in Neuchâtel (where it also has a showroom) and offering more than 40 references across seven collections.
Mark-ups are currently between 2.5 and three times the cost of production (slightly more than when BA111OD launched, but still well below the Swiss watch norm which can be up to times 10), with access to the brand starting at just 590 CHF for a piece from the Neo Vintage line and rising to 12,000 CHF for an Infinity flying tourbillon which, like all BA111OD’s tourbillon models, is assembled by specialists in La Chaux de Fonds.
The Latest Expression of the BA111OD Philosophy
The latest release, meanwhile, reaffirms BA111OD’s commitment to make high quality, interesting watches accessible to the less well-heeled collector – and that’s the Chapter 7 Skeleton Anthracite.
At just 1,120 CHF this 40mm, integrated bracelet, self-winding watch could almost be a ‘loss leader’ such is the extent of its features.
The open-worked architecture reveals a range of impressive finishes, with nicely executed brushed and polished bevels, visible rubies and a sandblasted perimeter between the raised indexes, which are SuperLuminova-filled for a high degree of after-dark legibility.
The case, meanwhile, is hewn from highly corrosion-resistant 316L stainless steel (as used by Rolex until 2001), which gets an anthracite PVD treatment to match the bracelet.
A 10-sided bezel secures a sapphire crystal (with a double anti-reflective coating) while a sapphire display back gives a view of the anthracite-colored, BA111OD engraved rotor and the underside of the Soprod PO24 movement, which is good for 38 hours of power reserve.
If you prefer a more traditional look, meanwhile, the same skeletonised Chapter 7 can be had in natural steel, a finish that is said to ‘subtly evoke the reflections of Lac Neuchatel’ – the very place where champion wing foiler and brand ‘playmaker’ Loic Huguenin busted some of his best moves for the latest Ba111od marketing campaign.
At 955 CHF on a matching steel bracelet or 895 CHF on a ‘frosted blue’ strap, it’s even more accessible than its anthracite stablemate.
For a pair of watches with this much detail, such a variety of finishes and such an overall feel of quality, these two really do express what Baillod’s original manifesto was all about.
But if you’re still not sure that less (price) really can mean more (watch), take a close look at the Chapter 7 line-up, in which the non-skeleton models start at 780 CHF. Compare it to models from considerably more expensive brands – and then make your own mind up as to whether or not it’s worth spending all that extra money.
FAQ
Q: What is BA111OD?
A: BA111OD is a Swiss watch brand founded in 2019 by Thomas Baillod in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It runs on markups of 2.5 to 3 times production cost, well below the Swiss industry norm of up to 10 times, with access starting at CHF 590.
Q: How much does the BA111OD Chapter 7 Skeleton Anthracite cost?
A: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Skeleton Anthracite costs CHF 1,120. It is a 40mm self-winding watch with an integrated bracelet, a 316L stainless steel case with anthracite PVD treatment, and a Soprod PO24 movement. Non-skeleton Chapter 7 models start at CHF 780.
Q: What is a self-winding watch?
A: A self-winding watch, or automatic watch, winds its mainspring using the wearer's wrist motion via an internal rotor, without manual winding or a battery. The BA111OD Chapter 7 Skeleton Anthracite uses this system, built around a Soprod PO24 movement.
Q: Who founded BA111OD?
A: BA111OD was founded in 2019 by Thomas Baillod, a Swiss watch industry veteran previously at Louis Erard and Maurice Lacroix. He launched the brand in La Chaux-de-Fonds with the Chapter 1.1, an open-worked three-hander priced at CHF 320.
