It’s not something you hear every day. Stéphane Waser, Managing Director of Maurice Lacroix, states: “At Maurice Lacroix, we strive to be inventive in everything we do. Nevertheless, we recognise that, on certain occasions, collaborating with other creators allows us to achieve a winning synergy.” At first glance this might seem like an unremarkable statement, but it isn’t. What Stéphane Waser is unambiguously saying is that in-house production is the rule at Maurice Lacroix, and collaboration is the exception.
It would be easy to disregard the evidence, given that the watch market is flooded with “collabs”, to the extent that some brands have become totally dependent on them and struggle to build their own collections and establish their own identity.
Three pillars
This, however, does not apply to Maurice Lacroix. The brand is largely based on three pillars: the Aikon (urban), the Pontos (sport), and the Masterpiece (horological). The Aikon is its main growth driver, which gives all the more reason to focus on the less visible segments. And that’s the whole point of the collaboration with Label Noir on the Masterpiece collection.
The gamble is a bold one, as the watch is priced at 7,350 euros, far above the average spend at Maurice Lacroix (an Aikon goes for 2,400 euros on average). The Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir is an exceptional product, raising the question of whether it was necessary to aim so high. There’s no easy answer – aiming lower would invite accusations of selling out fine watchmaking, while aiming higher would lead to criticism of overstepping. Ultimately, the positioning of the piece will only concern a very limited number of buyers, as this edition is limited to 288 pieces.
Highly limited series
This is the second collaboration between Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir, following a successful but conventional full-black limited edition Aikon in 2020. The market responded positively to the experiment, but the risk was limited as the collaboration was only for 50 pieces.
The stakes are much higher for this second instalment, with both the price and the volume of pieces almost tripled. The approach is somewhat counterintuitive, as the Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir is a more exclusive product, and one might expect it to be aimed at a smaller number of collectors.
The advantages of skeletonisation
The watch has a diameter of 43 mm, as is customary for the Masterpiece collection. The finish remains entirely black, but the effect is lighter because of the skeletonised movement – an exercise greatly appreciated by collectors. Openworking all the components creates new shapes and surfaces, as well as more acute angles to chamfer and draw the discerning eye. With a skeleton movement targeted at knowledgeable collectors, it’s make or break. Execution must be flawless or the consequences will be swift and brutal.
With the Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir, the meticulous execution is clear to see. Attention has been paid to every surface. The bridge surfaces are grained and the edges feature a fine matte lamé reminiscent of Geneva stripes – an appropriate connection, as Label Noir is based in Geneva.
The moving parts are mirror-polished. The movement’s axis of symmetry lies from 11 o’clock to 5 o’clock, from the escapement (top) to the barrel (bottom), an unusual choice. Even the barrel cover is skeletonised, a rare approach that allows the barrel spring to be observed in its different states of tension, providing a visual gauge of the power reserve. The barrel ratchet (a moving part whose five arms are visible between the barrel bridge and the barrel) is beautifully decorated with snailing. The entire movement is showcased in this short video.
Delivered on a black nylon strap, this watch is now available to buy. It’s been four years since the last Label Noir collaboration, and while it’s anyone’s guess when the next chapter will be released, our hunch is that we’ll be waiting until at least 2028.
