As the Lucea celebrates its 10th anniversary, would you say the collection has fulfilled its promise?
It has certainly fulfilled its promise in Asia, where it has made quite an impact. The Lucea was designed as a commercial product closely associated with jewellery. It has proven itself in the region, but for the rest of the world it needs something else. It’s accessible and easy to wear for clients looking for an attractive everyday watch, and in a way it’s quite a classic design. It doesn’t have the strength of character of a Serpenti or a Bulgari Bulgari, which represent a break from traditional design. We need to enrich the Lucea with a vision that will turn it into an icon. The name “Lucea” is interesting because it means “light”. Light is the medium of joy; it brightens colours and brings out the beauty of gemstones. All these concepts will give our design studio the inspiration they need to infuse the Lucea with that extra power it needs. These days, clients want products to have meaning.
Like the Lucea with malachite marquetry dial, for example?
Indeed, for 2024 we’re using our own malachite offcuts to create unique handcrafted dials, which look absolutely sublime. The fragments are extremely thin, so considerable craftsmanship and jewellery expertise are required to work with them. Light also adds its own fascinating dimension. The overall effect is to create a better understanding of the Lucea collection.
Is this evolution of the Lucea collection accompanied by a price upgrade?
That is not our intention. We want to keep within a price range of between CHF 5,000 and up to CHF 20,000 for items using precious materials. With the Lucea, our wish is to offer watches that are beautiful and luxurious but also accessible. Bulgari relies on a network of 300 boutiques around the world. They’re not just for the super-rich. Our feet are firmly on the ground.
Is the upcycling concept present in other collections?
We love the idea of upcycling; it resonates with our staff. In fact, it came from them. It’s a genuine concern at every level of our business. When we look at the watchmaking division’s carbon footprint, the biggest culprit is mining and extraction. That’s why 99% of the gold we use today is recycled. But we’re taking it further with the stones used in the Lucea Malachite, even though it’s only a semi-precious stone. But that’s where its value lies, along with the fact that it is crafted by hand. This transition has been made possible by human talent. Making beautiful things in an intelligent way with intellectual honesty triggers a virtuous cycle, and it’s also very easy to explain. By incorporating all these values, we can increase understanding among our clients.
You have another collection celebrating its 10th birthday. What do you predict for the next 10 years, knowing what has happened in the last 10?
That’s a very good question. Many clients consider the Octo Finissimo to be an icon, which is a wonderful compliment. It nevertheless begs the question, what does it mean to be an icon? We believe it is more than mere popularity. In my opinion, to become a true icon, a product must transcend gender, generation, geography and category. It must supersede temporal and cultural limitations. We still have a long way to go, because the Octo Finissimo has not yet been handed down by parents to their children. But we’re observing greater demand from women, and also growing interest in gem-set versions. Clients are prepared to invest more in products of great value. For us it’s vital to understand the product’s underlying concept – such as the use of the octagon inspired by the architecture of Italy. It’s a strong cultural reference that gives the entire family a distinctive signature. Because our design studio is very creative, it is constantly coming up with new versions, like the new Octo Finissimo with Tuscan Copper dial. But we are nevertheless deliberately slowing down. Should we worship the icon, the spirit, the soul of the collection? The challenge is to allow your product to evolve while remaining true to its essence. To rethink the cultural and architectural codes without compromising the integrity of the design. But we have a few surprises up our sleeve where the Octo Finissimo is concerned!
Have you observed an effect on sales of the Bulgari Bulgari collection as a result of your collaboration with the artist Lisa?
The effect is incontrovertible and highly tangible. And it has spread to geographical regions where we weren’t expecting to see any effect at all. It’s truly a global phenomenon. She brings a modern touch to an iconic piece of jewellery by, for instance, choosing to pair a very intricate bracelet with a limited-edition watch.
