In a world full of uncertainties, what is your only certainty for 2024?
I've maintained my independence and my watchmaking credibility. This enables me to be certain that Patek Philippe is still running well and that demand persists. While the global situation is definitely not easy and requires great adaptability, that's basically the way it's always been. My only certainty lies in my confidence in our products and our strategy. We've held our line and I think that's important, because customers need stability in this fast-moving world and we often see them lost by brands that change their products or strategies too much.
What colors will predominate at Patek Philippe in 2024?
Blue is still strongly present; I find it quite noble and it blends easily with all material colors. More surprisingly, purple is very much in demand, especially on the new Ladies’ Nautilus. It’s a powerful hue that many women are requesting from our boutiques and I wasn't expecting this success. More generally speaking, I find pastel shades interesting and they'll no doubt come into their own this year.
Talking of minute repeaters, what have the reactions been to the one released to mark Philippe Stern's 85th birthday?
Looking back, I think it's a fine tribute to my father, and one that only the Patek Philippe brand could pull off. Imagine years of development to develop a new Grand Complication movement, fitted in into watch issued in a run of only 30 and never to be used again. We're a family business with no shareholder behind us to dictate profitability and that's why this piece is so pricelessly beautiful, a true gift to my father. Our clients clearly grasped this. It wasn't a conventional project, as not everyone wants to have Philippe Stern's portrait on their dial. Enthusiasts, collectors of Grand Complications and those who knew my father and followed Patek through the years really loved this watch, whose technical content is also mind-boggling. Many were of course disappointed not to be able to acquire one. We'll see what my kids come up with for me!
Did your major exhibition in Tokyo last year bear fruit?
We're now quite used to this kind of biennial exhibition, and we know that the favorable repercussions last for three years. In their wake, there genuinely are three years of brand awareness, discussions and memories that motivate customers, each time in a new market. This one attracted 60,000 Japanese visitors who were blown away, both by the Geneva-style decor we had recreated and by the 250 timepieces across all styles they were able to admire and have explained to them. The cultural and educational dimension of the event was phenomenal. We also worked hand in hand with our 30 Japanese retailers, all of whom were on hand to guide clients. The collaboration was very intense and it enabled us to convey the message for a very long time in a credible way. We had a very young audience, which is promising in this market of connoisseurs.
What are your key expectations for this Watches and Wonders edition?
It’s mainly about hosting our retailers and explaining our new products to them in the best possible conditions, as well as meeting with the press. Welcoming the whole world to Geneva over this period of time takes months of preparation and I hope that the work accomplished by the Watches and Wonders organization will enable us all to enjoy optimal smooth operation on site. The highly complex logistics should be a match for the high stakes involved, for exhibitors as well as organizers, who represent the cornerstone of this international event.
Will Patek Philippe once again shine with its Grand Complications this year?
Yes, we always aim for two technical new releases per year, but sometimes that's not feasible. We only introduce them when we're sure they'll work. Generally speaking, the complexity of our products has increased and we're pushing the envelope in terms of details, shapes and even dial manufacturing, which bears no relation to bygone days and is now ultra-complex. For this reason, we have decided to reduce the number of new products unveiled at Watches and Wonders. Thus far we have generally presented 30 to 40 new products a year, but from now on we'll be concentrating on around 15, which will also make us more efficient in terms of logistics and production.
Last year you also mentioned the launch of a new collection?
Yes, and that illustrates my point about releasing new products only when they're ready to be introduced, as is the case this year for this new line. Our customers are looking forward to it and it promises to be a great story, but it won't be making its debut at Watches and Wonders. It's rare to see Patek launch a new collection, so I can safely state that 2024 is an important year for us.
Is this also the case for Rare Handcrafts?
More than ever. Patek Philippe creates and exhibits around 40 Rare Handcrafts timepieces a year, but this time I've just approved the prices for a hundred exceptional models! I had them all in the same room on this occasion and enjoying such an overview is a spectacular and essential experience. I am personally in charge of assigning a price to each model. It's a lot of work, but it enables us to set the right price – and I think we're very reasonable compared to the competition – for some incredible products. They are on show at our Salons on the Rue du Rhône in April and will then move on to London. Our artisans have achieved extraordinary feats of beauty and it is well worth coming to admire them in person to grasp the passion we lavish upon them.
What about the women's range?
This year will be about continuity, although we're nurturing great ambitions and laying some very significant groundwork that won't yet be visible. We recently enjoyed great success with our Aquanaut Minute Repeater on a composite strap with case emitting an incredible chime that even surprised me personally! Our female customers will soon be delighted to have a broader choice. Meanwhile, they will discover the new interpretation of the Twenty-4, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary and remains resolutely timeless.
