25 Aiguille d’Or Awards Under the Microscope

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Over the past 25 years, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has awarded its highest distinction, the Aiguille d’Or, 25 times. Looking back at these winners reveals a fascinating timeline of contemporary watchmaking, with each award reflecting a significant milestone in the evolution of the industry over the last quarter century.

2001, a singular tribute to women’s watchmaking

The very first Aiguille d’Or went to a ladies’ watch, and, remarkably, it remains the only one ever to do so. Vacheron Constantin’s Lady Kalla occupies a unique place in GPHG history as the sole women’s timepiece to have received the competition’s highest honor.

Vacheron Constantin, Lady Kalla © GPHG

2002, a future collector’s favorite

When Patek Philippe won the Aiguille d’Or for the Ref. 5102, the jury highlighted the deep connection between watchmaking and astronomy. Like many discontinued Patek Philippe references, the watch has since become a highly desirable collector’s piece. It would take another 17 years before an astronomical timepiece once again claimed the top award.

Patek Philippe, 5102 Ciel Lune © GPHG

2003, the one and only consecutive victory

Only one brand has ever succeeded in winning the Aiguille d’Or in back-to-back years: Patek Philippe. Following its success in 2002, the manufacture repeated the feat in 2003 with an impressive tourbillon featuring a 10-day power reserve.

Patek Philippe, RéF 5101 P «10 Jours Tourbillon» © GPHG

2004, F.P. Journe’s breakthrough moment

F.P. Journe’s victory carried significance far beyond a single award. It marked the growing recognition of independent watchmakers at a time when the industry was still largely dominated by established maisons. Independent creators had yet to find a broad audience, and F.P. Journe played a key role in changing that. The award also foreshadowed the dominance of the tourbillon, a complication that would define much of the next two decades.

F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain à seconde morte © GPHG

2005, the first grand complication winner

Vacheron Constantin earned its second Aiguille d’Or with a watch that reflected the jury’s increasing appreciation for highly complicated timepieces. The Tour de l’Ile combined a second time zone, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. Its original retail price of CHF 50,000 now seems almost unimaginable—today, it would likely command at least four times that amount.

Vacheron Constantin, Tour de l’Île © GPHG

2006 & 2008 : F.P. Journe’s Dominance

By collecting an Aiguille d’Or every two years (in 2004, 2006 and 2008), F.P. Journe established an almost rhythmic relationship with the GPHG. Its Souverain line, including the Tourbillon, Sonnerie and Centigraphe, remains the only collection in the history of the competition to have received the top distinction three times.

F.P. Journe, Centigraphe Souverain © GPHG

2007, Richard Mille changes the rules

Richard Mille needed six years to secure its first, and so far only, Aiguille d’Or. The RM 012 represented a clear break from traditional watchmaking codes. The jury rewarded a brand that embodied modernity and disruption, despite the watch’s already extraordinary CHF 800,000 price tag.

Richard Mille, RM 012 © GPHG

2009, the curious case of A. Lange & Söhne

Given the manufacture’s reputation for exclusivity and technical sophistication, it is surprising that A. Lange & Söhne has received only a single Aiguille d’Or. Awarded in 2009, the Zeitwerk remains in the collection today, unlike the vast majority of past winners.

A. Lange & Söhne, Lange Zeitwerk © GPHG

2010 & 2011, independent watchmakers confirm their place

Greubel Forsey’s first Aiguille d’Or validated both the young brand, then only six years old, and the growing importance of independent watchmaking. During the first 11 years of the GPHG, independents accounted for 60% of all Aiguille d’Or winners. The following year, De Bethune, founded in 2002, reinforced the trend with the DB28, a landmark model that remains in production.

De Bethune, De Bethune DB28 © GPHG

2012 & 2013, two exceptional outliers

TAG Heuer received its first and only Aiguille d’Or in 2012 thanks to the pioneering work of its R&D director, Guy Sémon. Produced as a single example, the Mikrogirder remained highly confidential, but its technical achievement was extraordinary, operating at 1,000 Hz. A similar story unfolded in 2013 with Girard-Perregaux’s Constant Escapement: one Aiguille d’Or, a major technological breakthrough, a highly limited concept series, and no further top awards since.

Tag Heuer, Mikrogirder © GPHG

2014, Breguet finally recognised

Breguet has always maintained a relatively discreet presence at the GPHG, submitting only a limited number of watches. Yet it would have been difficult to overlook the legacy of Abraham-Louis Breguet, the father of modern watchmaking. Recognition finally came in 2014 with the Classique Chronométrie, a model that remains part of the collection today. 

Breguet, Classique Chronométrie © GPHG

2015, Greubel Forsey’s final triumph?

After being rewarded for its inclined escapement, Greubel Forsey secured a second Aiguille d’Or with another of its signature creations, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes. To date, it remains the atelier’s last top distinction.

Greubel Forsey, Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision © GPHG

2016 & 2017, Ferdinand Berthoud’s spectacular arrival and Chopard’s coronation

Few stories are as remarkable as that of a brand with a single model winning the industry’s highest honour in the very year of its debut. That achievement belongs to the team led by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele with Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, which would go on to become one of the most awarded names in GPHG history. The following year, its parent company Chopard followed suit with the L.U.C Full Strike, another creation particularly appreciated by Scheufele himself.

Chopard, L.U.C Full Strike © GPHG

2018, Bovet’s long-awaited recognition

Despite its prestigious status, centuries-old heritage and passion for grand complications, Bovet had never received an Aiguille d’Or. The wait finally ended in 2018, when the brand earned recognition at the highest level.

Bovet 1822, Récital 22 Grand Récital © GPHG

2019 & 2023, Audemars Piguet reaches new heights

Although Audemars Piguet had already accumulated several GPHG distinctions, the Aiguille d’Or had long eluded the Le Brassus manufacture. The breakthrough ultimately came twice within four years, rewarding two very different collections: the enduring Royal Oak and the newer Code 11.59, whose recognition helped establish its identity alongside its iconic predecessor.

Audemars Piguet, Roya Oak Quantième Perpétuel Ultra-Plat Automatique © GPHG

2020 & 2021, the era of ultra-thin watchmaking

These consecutive editions produced a unique sequence in GPHG history, with two brands winning the Aiguille d’Or for the same aesthetic pursuit: ultra-thin watchmaking. First came Piaget, the discipline’s historical specialist, followed by Bvlgari and its disruptive Octo Finissimo.

Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo © GPHG

2022, MB&F’s long-awaited consecration

Seventeen years after its founding, MB&F finally received an Aiguille d’Or. The brand, created by Max Büsser, has always occupied a category of its own, combining unconventional designs, highly technical movements and limited production. The award celebrated both the brand’s singular journey and its remarkable Legacy Machine Sequential Evo chronograph.

MB&F, Legacy Machine Sequential Evo © GPHG

2024, a first for IWC

After more than two decades of waiting at the doorstep of the competition’s highest honor, IWC finally secured an Aiguille d’Or in 2024. The winning watch featured a calendar designed to remain accurate until the year 4000.

IWC Schaffhausen, Portugieser Eternal Calendar © GPHG

2025, Breguet's renaissance

For the latest edition, the GPHG chose to recognize Breguet not only for an outstanding creation but also for the renewed direction of the brand under its new CEO, Gregory Kissling. With the Souscription, he has guided Breguet toward a more contemporary expression, winning over collectors and jury members alike.

Breguet, Classique Souscription 2025 © GPHG
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