Why this list matters? Because these watches collectively legitimized women as serious watch collectors. When considered as a whole, these watches ended the era of “pink it and shrink it.” Instead, they merged jewelry, mechanics, fashion, and technology, and created new archetypes rather than derivatives of male icons. Enjoy!
This list was made in collaboration with Victoria Gomelsky, Rachel Silvestri, David Chokron, Brice Lechevalier, and Olivier Müller.
1. Breguet Reine de Naples, 2002
Inspired by the watch that Abraham-Louis Breguet made for Caroline Murat, the Queen of Naples, back in 1810, this oblong watch has proven to be canvas for a variety of expressions. Even though it has appeared in stainless steel with casual denim straps, its regal heritage is best suited for precious metals and sparkling highlights.
2. Omega Aqua Terra, 2002
Somewhere between an elegant dress watch and a proper tool watch, the Aqua Terra is a chameleon that works both in nature and in finer salons.
3. La D de Dior, 2003
Since its arrival in 20023 La D has come in a myriad of patterns and looks and materials, with a dial that is always adorned by precious stones. Thanks to its lug-less strap attachment it is easily recognizable despite its apparently simple form language.
4. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Ladies, 2004
One of the first true dive watches consistently offered in women’s sizes, with real water resistance, professional specs and a rugged design language with a twelve-sided bezel.
5. Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye, 2004
After 22 years the Cat’s Eye is still going strong. Its elliptical shape and sensual curves and unusual breadth given its horizontal orientation gives it instant recognizability. Unless of course we are talking the high jewelry versions, where the case is turned 90° to be worn in the vertical direction. Extra points for being only mechanical.
6. Cartier Balloon Bleu, 2007
When the tapered-edge Ballon Bleu arrived 19 years ago, it was with a female audience in mind. Today the small watch is available for all genders in a variety of sizes, all with the cabochon-studded crown well protected by a surrounding barrier.
7. Hublot Big Bang Ladies, 2008
2008, three years after the launch of the original, macho-sized 44-millimeter Big, Hublot presented a Bang Big Bang designed exclusively for women. With a diameter of 38mm, a diamond-set bezel, and no chronograph, yet with the unmistakable porthole look, this was an instant hit that lured many female collectors to the flamboyant brand.
8. Patek Philippe Ladies First Chronograph ref.7071, 2009
In 2009 Patek released the cushion-shaped milestone watch called Ladies first Chronograph. This was the first ladies watch with a manual chronograph movement made inhouse, and the dial side was just as good: two elliptical subdials, three rows of diamonds and roman numerals at 12 and 6. As the brand wrote in the 2009 press release (which can be found on WorldTempus): “It begins a new chapter in Patek Philippe's longstanding commitment to ladies' timepieces.”
9. Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux, 2010
The Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux is the most famous of Van Cleef & Arpels poetic complications. With a beautifully expressed retrograde movement. As our contributing journalist Rachel Silvestri put it: “The combination of complication, intensely beautiful craftsmanship and sheer conceptual whimsy is absolutely magical.”
10. Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous, 2012
As we know today the very first wrist watches were worn by women and Jaeger‑LeCoultre, the watchmaker of watchmakers, was always a pioneer in creating special calibers for wristwatches for women. The Rendez-Vous – often with guilloché dials and oversized Arabic numerals, is continuing this tradition.
11. Jaquet Droz Lady 8, 2013
The upper circle of the number 8-shaped watch lends itself to various decorations or even automatons, which has always been a signature of this 18th century watchmaker that was revived by Swatch Group in the year 2000.
12. Glashütte Original Pavonina, 2013
The 1920s-inspired cushion shape and hollowed lugs – a design that lends itself to combining different metals, precious stones, colors, and materials is still made in its original 31x31 millimeter size.
13. Audemars Piguet Diamond Punk, 2015
Diamond Punk, a wildly shaped cuff watch with pyramidal peaks, all covered in diamonds. The watch which can also be warn as a secret watch, won the Jewelry watch prize at the GPHG in 2015.
14. Chanel Boyfriend, 2015
The square watch with angled corners quickly became a favorite among ladies appreciating Chanels journey into haute horlogerie.
15. Lady Compliquée Peacock by Fabergé, 2015
When the peacock spreads its feathers it becomes the minutes, which works in a retrograde manner – once it has reached 60, it bounces back to zero. This watch was made in collaboration with Agenhor, and it picked up the GPHG prize for best lady’s high mechanical watch.
16. Divas’ Dream – Bvlgari, 2018
Ever since Diva’s Dream hit the stage in 2018, the feminine and sparkling watch collection inspired by the fan-shaped mosaics of Rome’s ancient baths has been used for gem-draped time only versions as well as high complications, including the thinnest minute repeater ever made for women. In short, Diva’s dream is Mediterranean glamour reinterpreted for a new generation.
17. Richard Mille Richard Mille Bonbon collection, 2019
The Richard Mille Bonbon collection, which was designed by Cécile Guenat, the brand's Artistic Director (and daughter of co-founder Dominique Guenat) comprised of ten different models blurring the lines between sweets, fruits, and horology. It comprised of four RM 07-03 (Marshmallow, Cupcake, Myrtille and Litchi), three RM 16-01 (Réglisse, Citron, Fraise), and three RM 37-01 (Sucette, Cerise, Kiwi.) All with a guaranteed sugar rush.
18. Chopard L'Heure du Diamant, 2012
In 2012 Chopard made an official collection for its 1960s-inspired jewelry watches. Ever since the collection signified by a significant diamond-set bezel, it has also been a playground for various dial materials including the shiny black onyx of 2026.
19. Égérie – Vacheron Constantin, 2020
Haute horlogerie finally speaking directly to women, without dilution. Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie is feminine and distinctive without being sickly sweet.
20. MB&F/Bvlgari Flying T Allegra, 2021
Back in 2021 these two brands came out with a surprising collaboration that produced a highly domed, playful tourbillon which just so happens to be one of the most feminine timepieces of the 21st century.
21. Van Cleef & Arpels Heures Florales, 2022
For this timepiece Van Cleef and Arpels sought inspiration in what was actually a failed experiment by Swedish botanist Carl von Linné, who tried to create a garden that would tell the time of day. But in a horological garden it is possible – the number of flowers that are open will give you the hour, and the minutes can be read in a window on the left side of the case.
22. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Secret Necklace, 2023
Introduced at Watches and Wonders 2023, this high jewelry sautoir completely reimagined the iconic 1931 polo watch into an art deco-inspired necklace with onyx and diamonds, most notably with two onyx pendants at the end of intricate diamond-set links. As it is a secret watch the wearer chooses to – or not to – reveal the time.
23. Longines Mini Dolcevita, 2023
With almost a century of inspiration, the mini version of the Art Deco-ish Mini Dolce Vita immediately showed that square watches are anything but square – especially when presented in gold and steel.
24. Piaget Limelight Gala, 2023
What happens if you extend curved lugs and put gemstones all over those parts? Well, if you are Piaget, you end up with ultra-thin elegance combined with sculptural asymmetry.
25. Joia de Baume & Mercier, 2026
New brand owners, new models. The delicate 28-millimeter Joia de Baume & Mercier in polished steel cases housing radiating dials are not only elegant; they are also user friendly: with a five-year battery life and water resistant to 50 meters they are soon to be seen on a beach near you.
