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Bracelet
3 minutes read
We often speak of the dial as the face of the watch, but let’s not underestimate the power of the watch strap. Here are seven of the most famous and what makes them special

On a roll 

Invented by Breitling in the 1980s, the Rouleaux bracelet is the stylish, laidback, adaptable Eighties child. First seen on the Chronomat, it comprises a succession of metal cylinders — which explains its other name, the Bullet — and fastens with an invisible deployant clasp. Instantly recognisable, its supple construction guarantees comfort on the wrist. The modern Rouleaux also comes in rubber with a pin buckle.

Shown here on a Breitling Chronomat GMT in steel, 42mm diameter, automatic winding.

 Chronomat GMT © Breitling
 Chronomat GMT © Breitling 

Earn your stripes 

Making its debut in 1973 to British Ministry of Defence (MoD) Standard 66-15, the NATO strap has gone from military to must-have. Originally in nylon, plain or with regimental stripes, the NATO strap soaked up humidity and didn’t glint in the sun like metal. The MoD-issue strap was made from a single piece of nylon, 1.2mm thick, 20mm wide and 280mm long. It passes through the lugs, behind the case and fastens with a pin buckle. Demobbed, the NATO is the ultimate interchangeable strap.

Shown here on a Tudor Ranger in steel, 39mm diameter, automatic winding.

Ranger © Tudor
Ranger © Tudor 

Tropical treat 

The origins of the Tropic strap stretch back to the early 1960s. Comfortable, durable and with a personality of its own, the Tropic made its mark as the perfect dive-watch buddy. In rubber, the exterior plays around with the moiré effect of its diamond pattern, with perforations for breathability. On the flip side, an embossed lining allows air to penetrate and makes it easier to evacuate perspiration and humidity.

Shown here on a Baltic Toolwatch in steel, 37mm diameter, automatic winding.

Toolwatch © Baltic
Toolwatch © Baltic 

Mr President 

The President bracelet is inseparable from Rolex. Comprising three semi-circular links, it was introduced by the brand in 1956 especially for the release that year of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date. Its concealed clasp and exceptional suppleness are two qualities that would win over the greats of this world, including numerous political leaders from Winston Churchill to several US Presidents, Eisenhower among them. It is, for many, an essential ingredient in the art of wearing a Rolex watch. Consistently admired for the symmetry and harmony of its design, still today the President bracelet is reserved for the Day-Date and for the Datejust in precious metal, and is exclusively crafted in yellow, white or rose gold, and in platinum.

Shown here on a Rolex Day-Date in white gold, 40mm diameter, automatic winding.

Day Date © Rolex
Day Date © Rolex

Back again 

When Panerai unveiled the world’s most sustainable watch — the Submersible eLAB-ID manufactured from 98.6% recycled material by weight — it also introduced an innovative strap. Fitted with a pin buckle in EcoTitanium, an alloy of 80% recycled titanium, this unusual textured fabric strap is derived from recycled PET bottles that were collected in Lombardy. The lining is a leather alternative made from agricultural fibres: specifically, a plant-based polymer combined with polyurethane for enhanced resistance to humidity and perspiration. Panerai even went as far as to add a recycled leather fibre insert between the fabric and the lining to give the strap its rounded shape. In total, the strap notches up 78% recycled materials. While the lining is plant-based and therefore respectful of animal welfare, it is not recycled.

Shown here on the Panerai Submersible e-LAB-ID in 98.6% recycled material by weight, 44mm diameter, automatic winding.

e-LAB-ID © Panerai
e-LAB-ID © Panerai

A foot on the ladder 

Launched by Zenith in 1968, the Echelle (“ladder”) bracelet is back in business. Originally manufactured by Gay Frères, it must be simultaneously stylish and sporty, as well as comfortable to wear. This could explain its distinctive ladder design, with “breathing space” between each steel blade link. Attached by a folding clasp, the Echelle bracelet is back in the spotlight thanks to Zenith’s reissue of a 1971 Defy. The design is unchanged, only this time with the added heft of solid steel links.

Shown here on a Zenith Defy Revival A3691 in steel, 37mm diameter, automatic winding.

Defy Revival A3691 © Zenith
Defy Revival A3691 © Zenith

Thrice as nice 

When Vacheron Constantin relaunched the Overseas collection in 2016, it did more than reinvent an icon. It did something unthinkable with its strap! The Manufacture proposes a luxury timepiece with straps that the watch’s owner can swap in and out to match their mood, outfit or whatever they happen to be doing that day. Much like you might do with a lower-priced novelty watch. Versatility meets DIY, with options to switch from metal to rubber to leather and back again, at home, on the go, without any special tools and, importantly, with zero risk of dropping or, worst-case scenario, losing a precious accessory because the strap wasn’t properly secured.

Shown here on a Vacheron Constantin Overseas in steel, 41mm diameter, automatic winding. 

Overseas © Vacheron Constantin
Overseas © Vacheron Constantin
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