At the beginning of the 20th century, heroines were no longer princesses but scientists (Marie Curie), novelists (Colette), or fashion designers (Coco Chanel). At a time when suffragettes were shaking England and Copenhagen was calling for a Women’s Day, one man understood before anyone else what this meant: Paul Mercier. On December 16, 1918, when he stepped into William Baume’s office in Geneva, he sensed that women no longer wished to be mere spectators of watchmaking. They wanted to understand the language of time, master the hours, and assert their autonomy. Baume, a master watchmaker of exemplary rigor, welcomed him with an attentive gaze and said: “You are a visionary. A man with perspective.” Forward-thinking, Mercier was already placing women at the heart of the movement, beyond the conventions and advertisements of the time. This was the beginning of a great story.
Femininity, Finesse, and Whimsy
Women’s watchmaking is reinventing itself: miniaturization, technical sophistication, and elegance. Jewelry watches, yes, but above all, watches of conviction. During the Roaring Twenties and the Art Deco era, Baume & Mercier made a strong impression with ultra-thin models, among the thinnest in the world. “Baguette” movements adapted perfectly to feminine cases of original shapes: rectangular, square, tonneau, or cushion. In July 1920, the crowning achievement came at the Geneva Fair: the press went wild, praising the finesse and creativity of the Maison’s creations.
Marquise: The Watch That Changed Everything
1935 marked a turning point. William Baume left for health reasons, followed two years later by Paul Mercier. Ernest Ponti and Constantin de Gorski took the reins. Active and independent women began breaking the codes. In the 1950s, Baume & Mercier showcased them: a female doctor, precise on the wrist, attentive to the movement as much as to style. She demanded a high-end mechanism. Reliability became her priority. It was at this moment that the Marquise was born. Its concept? A case connected by invisible hinges at the ends of the strap, with a Lépine or savonette movement, simple or adorned with jewels. Refined, it became the best-selling watch until the 1960s and firmly established the Maison’s reputation among women.
Galaxie and Stardust: The Pinnacle of Design
The 1970s and the cultural revolution opened a new chapter. Man walked on the Moon. The future arrived on the wrist. Baume & Mercier reinvented its codes: boldness, clean lines, and above all, jewelry watches. Galaxie played with asymmetry, sculptural and modern. Stardust sparkled with 138 diamonds on an onyx dial and won the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden in 1973. The watch was no longer merely an instrument; it became a jewel that asserted style, personality, and character.
Linéa, Hampton, Catwalk: The 1990s in a Feminine Light
In the 1990s, the Maison continued its exploration of women’s watchmaking. The Linéa (1987) made a strong impression with its round case, engraved numerals, and sleek design. Inspired by haute couture, it became a symbol of craftsmanship and elegance, available in gold, two-tone, or set with gems. In 1994, the Hampton dared a curved rectangular steel case. Drawing inspiration from models of the 1930s–60s, it embodied the chic and relaxed spirit of the Hamptons, halfway between the French Riviera and transatlantic elegance. Three years later, Catwalk closed the decade with boldness: more than a watch, it was a jewelry bracelet. Steel, leather, rubber, or gold… it adapted, asserted itself, and expressed a young, free-spirited style.
Clifton: The Independent Woman
The Clifton Baumatic marks the next chapter in 2025. With a 34 mm case, a gradient blue dial, high-performance Baumatic movement, five-day power reserve, and resistance to magnetic fields… every detail combines style and technology. Proof that women no longer settle for a watch as a mere utilitarian object or fashion accessory. They take ownership of watchmaking, and Baume & Mercier continues to set the pace.
