39mm: The Size Is Right

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For a great many collectors, 39mm is the sweet spot. The Goldilocks diameter, a case that is neither too large nor too small, whose proportions adapt to every wrist size, men’s and women’s. All of which explains why 39mm watches are hotter than ever and likely to remain so for a long while to come

Montblanc, CHF 2,245

A handsome timepiece with vintage allure that offers excellent quality at this price point. Roman numerals circle an attractive deep blue dial, with an aperture for the date. This Star Legacy is one to wear anywhere, or gift to a lucky recipient.

Star-Legacy © Mont-Blanc
Star Legacy in steel, automatic movement, date in an aperture, leather strap. Limited edition of 1,786 pieces © Montblanc 

Tudor, CHF 3,650

Another example of a model offered at a carefully studied price. Unmistakably a tool watch, this Black Bay boasts the inimitable look of a 1950s diver but combines this vintage vibe with modern specs to stay safe in deep water.

Black Bay 54  © Tudor
Black Bay 54 in steel, aluminium bezel, automatic movement, steel bracelet © Tudor 

Frédérique Constant, CHF 3,995

A third example of a watch that delivers style and substance for less than CHF 4,000 - although this will come as no surprise to Frederique Constant’s fans who know that value is intrinsic to the brand. An in-house movement, its escapement visible through the dial, drives this limited edition.

Classic Heart Beat Manufacture © Frédérique Constant
Classic Heart Beat Manufacture in steel, automatic movement with visible escapement, leather strap. Limited edition of 930 pieces © Frédérique Constant 

Oris, CHF 4,200

One of Oris’s most creative lineups, the ProPilot comes as multiple variations including this version which owes its surprisingly light weight to titanium. Inside is Caliber 400, a high-performance, automatic movement and one of the brand’s newest in-house calibres.

ProPilot X © Oris
ProPilot X in titanium, automatic movement, date in an aperture, titanium bracelet © Oris

Jaeger-LeCoultre, CHF 11,400

This sophisticated timepiece surrounds a moon-phase display with a pointer-style date, offered at what is a reasonable price for this level of complication, courtesy of steel. Note the in-house calibre, naturally, as well as a beautifully understated opaline dial with baton hour markers.

Master UT Moon © Jaeger-LeCoultre
Master Ultra Thin Moon in steel, automatic movement, pointer date, moon phases, leather strap © Jaeger-LeCoultre 

Rolex, CHF 22,200

Heir to the Rolex Cellini, this Perpetual 1908 offers a dressy alternative to the legendary Oyster. A Rolex that looks more like a Patek Philippe Calatrava than a Rolex: wonderfully chic with small seconds at 6 o’clock, Arabic numerals alternating with hour markers and some lovely fluting on the bezel.

Perpetual 1908 © Rolex
Perpetual 1908 in white gold, automatic movement, small seconds, leather strap © Rolex

Audemars Piguet, CHF 31,300

An icon among watches that recently celebrated its half century yet is more in tune with current tastes than ever. The 39mm octagonal bezel is perfectly proportioned while its sport-luxe style is unique. Price doesn’t come into it for a watch such as the Royal Oak that will turn the head of any self-respecting connoisseur.

Royal Oak Jumbo © Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Jumbo in steel, extra-thin automatic movement, date in an aperture, steel bracelet © Audemars Piguet 

Hublot, CHF 60,000

An uncommon watch at an uncommon price, housed in a case sculpted from a block of transparent sapphire which Hublot, as creative and disruptive as always, has furnished with a steel bezel set with diamonds. A highly collectible limited edition that spotlights the skeletonised in-house movement.

Big Bang © Hublot
Big Bang in sapphire crystal, steel bezel with diamonds, automatic skeleton movement, date in an aperture, rubber strap. Limited edition of 200 pieces © Hublot 
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