High-End Calibres

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Calibre de choix
3 minutes read
When it comes to fine watchmaking, we generally leave quartz to one side and focus instead on mechanical movements. The best timepieces are driven by manual-winding or automatic calibres, which are constantly updated to optimise their performance. Here is a curated selection

Frederique Constant 

This year Frederique Constant celebrates its 35th anniversary with the launch of its 31st movement. The self-winding FC-735 calibre is embellished with circular Geneva striping and houses three complications: power reserve, large date and a moon phase display, which are all adjusted via the crown. This very special movement offers a 50-hour power reserve. It drives the manufacture Power Reserve Big Date in steel, CHF 4,795.

FC-735 © Frederique Constant
Calibre FC-735 © Frederique Constant 

MB&F 

The manual winding LM Sequential EVO is the 20th movement to leave the MB&F workshops, in just 17 years in business. It’s also the Maison’s very first chronograph. Designed in partnership with Stephen McDonnell, the movement incorporates two column wheel chronographs and a revolutionary switching system, the Twinverter, which allows for several different timing modes, including a lap counter and a split second function. The mechanism provides a combination of functions that have never been seen in a chronograph before, along with a 72-hour power reserve. It drives the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO in zirconium, CHF 181,000.

LM Sequential EVO © MB&F
LM Sequential EVO © MB&F

Rolex 

For the very first time, a Rolex is equipped with a sapphire caseback, providing a view of the 4131 self-winding chronograph movement decorated with Rolex stripes. This year, the mechanism also features a yellow gold rotor. The chronograph function is governed by a reduced complement of components, which translates to greater reliability. The chrono is activated by a robust column wheel mechanism with vertical clutch which ensures superlative response times and extreme precision. The watch also includes the patented nickel-phosphorus Chronergy escapement. Combining high energy efficiency with robust operation, the escapement is also impervious to strong magnetic fields. The chronometer-certified movement has a power reserve of 72 hours and comes with a 5-year warranty. It drives the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in platinum. CHF 74,200.

4131 © Rolex
Calibre 4131 © Rolex

Girard-Perregaux

The GP09200-1153 manual-winding calibre represents the latest evolution of the manufacture’s revolutionary approach to energy management, supplying constant force to the regulating organ. It is equipped with an ingenious silicon blade that ensures the amplitude of the balance remains constant, regardless of how much energy is stored in the barrel. This chronometer-certified movement is skeletonised and provides a power reserve of up to 7 days. It drives the Neo Constant Escapement in titanium. CHF 95,000.

GP09200-1153  © Girard-Perregaux
Calibre GP09200-1153  © Girard-Perregaux

Louis Vuitton 

The self-winding LFT023 calibre is the first three-handed automatic movement entirely developed by Louis Vuitton, in partnership with the integrated La Fabrique du Temps manufacture. It features a micro-rotor engraved with a stylised repeating LV motif. Reflecting the aesthetic of the watch itself, the movement has micro-blasted bridges and polished chamfers. The chronometer-certified mechanism supplies a 50-hour power reserve. It drives the Tambour W1PG10 in rose gold, CHF 52,000.

LFT023 © Louis Vuitton
Calibre LFT023 © Louis Vuitton

Grand Seiko 

To celebrate the 25th anniversary of number 95 mechanical movement launched in 1998, Grand Seiko is paying tribute with the self-winding 9S85. Visible through a sapphire caseback, the movement features a titanium rotor coloured blue through an anodising process, engraved with a lion, the Grand Seiko emblem. The movement is accurate to within +5 / -3 seconds per day and has a 50-hour power reserve. It drives the reference SBGH311 in steel, CHF 7,200.

9S85 © Grand Seiko
Calibre 9S85 © Grand Seiko

Bulgari 

The BVL 180 self-winding calibre is so thin, measuring just 1.50 mm deep, that the watch it equips is the world’s flattest mechanical timepiece, with an astonishing thickness of just 1.80 mm. This world record was made possible by the fact that the movement and dial are in fact one and the same. Two auxiliary dials showing the hours and minutes are on the same level as the barrel, the movement’s motor, which provides a power reserve of 50 hours. It drives the Octo Finissimo Ultra in titanium, CHF 478,000.

BVL 180 © Bulgari
Calibre BVL 180 © Bulgari

Oris 

The self-winding calibre 400 is recognised for its high resistance to magnetic fields, its stability and its sturdiness. Unlike traditional winding rotors which rotate in two directions on ball bearings, this oscillating weight rotates in one direction, using an innovative slide bearing system, to reduce wear. The chronometer-certified movement comes with a 10-year warranty and supplies a power reserve of 120 hours. It drives the Aqua Date Calibre 400 in steel, CHF 3,400. 

400 © Oris
Calibre 400 © Oris
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