Should the chronograph constantly be revisited in search of something new? Jacob & Co.’s answer is a resounding no; the brand used a large number of existing procedures for its Jean Bugatti. That said, the way it’s put them together is unique — and particularly elegant. The first thing you notice is that while (like so many others) the timepiece draws inspiration from the world of cars, it doesn’t co-opt the ethos of contemporary or 1960s motorsports as is often the trend. The partnership the brand signed with Bugatti in 2019 gives it access to the stylistic heritage of the leading carmaker — established in 1909. Bugatti produced some real aesthetic achievements, including the Type 41 Royal, the Type 50, and the Type 57SC Atlantic, the most expensive collector’s car in the world (Ralph Lauren owns one). Jacob & Co.’s inspiration is therefore largely vintage/Roaring Twenties — a rarity when it comes to chronographs.
The next thing even complete amateurs will notice is that telling the time really isn’t the most important thing going on here. Jacob & Co. consents to there being two very short hands pointing towards a curved bezel with Arabic numerals up to 12, but it quickly becomes obvious that the focus is elsewhere.
Here, the two central hands are assigned to the chronograph. They operate in conjunction with a third, more discreet indicator at 6 o’clock. The chronograph readings are as follows: the large hand indicates seconds, the small hand denotes tenths of seconds, while the window at 6 o’clock tots up elapsed minutes from 0 to 30.
An unusual display
The layout is atypical, as are the units used. Very few chronographs feature a dedicated hand for tenths of seconds alongside another for the seconds themselves. The type of display is also unusual, combining retrograde hands and a digital disc display.
However, the overall result is natural and easy to read. It’s apparent that Jacob & Co. has decided to focus on short time spans. The spectacle of the retrograde hands is both unusual and beautiful, especially the large hand that covers a 200° swath in 10 seconds — a rarely-seen segment and speed.
Two of everything
There’s even more to the Jean Bugatti than this. At 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock sit two apertures covered by smoked sapphire crystal. These house two tourbillons on which the upper bridge bears the initials of founder Ettore Bugatti, the father of Jean Bugatti, his only son; the double tourbillon is the technical and aesthetic hallmark of several Jacob & Co. creations.
Clearly, the idea is to combine horological excellence, accuracy, along with the neo-vintage feel of the iconic radiator grille. Each escapement runs at its own frequency: the hours escapement operates at 3Hz, the chronograph at 5Hz. This clever idea may not be new, but it does offer a good degree of accuracy for the chronograph whilst leaving an ample two-day power reserve for ordinary time-telling.
The watch was released in 2022 in two 57-piece limited editions, most notably with a model in rose gold and a cream-coloured dial.
Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti Twin Tourbillon & Chronograph
CASE: rose gold, sapphire crystal and caseback, water resistant to 30m
DIAMETER: 46mm
MOVEMENT: mechanical, hand wound Jacob & Co. JCFM09 calibre, chronograph with column wheel, 470 components, 92 jewels, two one-minute tourbillons, 5Hz for the chronograph, 3Hz for the hours and minutes display
FUNCTIONS: peripheral hours and minutes, bi-retrograde chronograph with separate tenths-of seconds and seconds displays, digital counter for 30 minutes-6 hours
DIAL: cream-lacquered
STRAP: alligator, rose gold folding clasp
LIMITED EDITION: 57 pieces LAUNCH YEAR: 2022
This year GMT Magazine and WorldTempus have embarked on the ambitious project of summarising the chronograph since the year 2000 in The Millennium Watch Book - Chronographs, a big, beautifully laid out coffee table book. This article is an extract. The Millennium Watch Book - Chronographs is available in both French and English here.
