Will you take your watch with a hint of quartz or an extra helping of mechanical? While this question can legitimately be raised today, it would previously have seemed incongruous or downright irrelevant. Up until the 1970s, watches were all powered by mechanical calibers. Then came a radical change of perspective, with the widespread introduction of quartz movements that were far less expensive, more accurate and reliable, as well as smaller. Watchmakers did not hesitate long and mechanical watchmaking was the loser in this apparently unequal battle. Despite its return to favor, women’s watches have not always benefited from this comeback, as their sizes lend themselves better to quartz and their potential added value sometimes lies more in the gemstones than in gear wheels.
Turning the tables
Boundaries are nonetheless becoming increasingly blurred and stereotypes about male and female tastes are being challenged, opening up new perspectives. In 2022, Deloitte’s study of the Swiss watch industry revealed that, while 44% of women prefer socalled feminine watches, 26% opt for unisex models. Nathalie Veysset, co-founder of the @watch_femme Instagram community, appreciates this shift: “Even though there is still a lack of mechanically interesting feminine watches, women actually have a lot of products at their disposal – not least because it has become acceptable to wear larger sizes.”
Whether or not the market share for mechanical ladies’ watches has changed remains (somewhat) more of a mystery, as the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry does not keep statistics on the subject. However, the figures show that the volume of mechanical watches has tripled since 2000, while export value is five times higher! As for quartz, the opposite phenomenon is emerging: while still higher than those of mechanical watches, 2022 volumes were two-thirds lower than 20 years ago, with value almost in freefall. Underlying these figures is a distinct upmarket move of which the return to mechanical calibers is an integral part – and strong enough to affect the ladies’ segment.
Historical cogs and wheels
A luxury brand historically associated with the feminine universe, Chanel already equipped the J12 with a mechanical caliber in 2000 – an approach that was unexpected at the time. Piaget, which has always made quartz an exception, has a different take yet made the same choice – this time a historical one. “Piaget was a watchmaker before it became a jeweler. Even for women’s jewelry watches, the demands placed on the movement have remained the same”, explains Rémi Jomard, Products & Innovation Director. Do customers come specifically to acquire mechanical models? “Of course. There are aficionados of mechanical movements who come to Piaget because the product is unique in terms of both its design and its history. And if some choose a quartz movement, it will be for a particular watch, like the Warhol watch powered by the Beta21 movement.”
Brands in all segments have now expanded their offering for female wrists – also described in a less gendered way as “slimmer” or destined for “fans of finesse”. Watches are available in smaller diameters as well as in a variety of colors and settings. For example, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony in a 37mm version – equipped with Caliber 2460 SC/3 – is masterfully set with diamonds. In other price categories, Zenith’s Defy Skyline, Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon Automatic 35mm, Tudor’s Black Bay 32mm, Breitling’s Navitimer and Oris’s Cotton Candy are also taking the “mecha” option.
Piccolissimo e bellissimo!
In 2022, after exploring thinness through various avenues, Bulgari presented the tiny Piccolissimo – embodying the miniaturization of calibers as an important factor in the development of the range. “We didn’t want to raise the question of whether women wanted mechanical calibers, because that would have led to clichés”, says Antoine Pin, Managing Director of the Bulgari Watch Division. “Instead we asked ourselves what we could bring to the table as a Roman jeweler. As we are masters of ultra-thin, we also explored ultra-small in creating masterpieces of jewelry and mechanical engineering.”
Both complex and costly to produce, the Piccolissimo has since found its place among Haute Joaillerie models that were previously driven by quartz calibers. What do customers think? “None of them have asked for a quartz movement instead, which kind of answers that question! Even though there is an extra cost in this price range – namely over CHF 100,000 – it’s not prohibitive.” Even so, Antoine Pin observes that interest in mechanics remains gendered: “Female customers sometimes ask for it on a man’s recommendation; there’s still a more masculine education when it comes to movements.”
Over time, this diversification of the offer will doubtless help raise awareness among all customers. Rémi Jomard, at Piaget, has his take on the theme: “The fact that the movement is mechanical often starts a real conversation about the construction of the movement, the complication inside and the power reserve. It’s a gateway to the exciting world of Haute Horlogerie.” Mechanical watchmaking’s fascination definitely shows no sign of fading.
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