Sports watches
Black is a very “now” colour, giving watches an undeniably contemporary feel. The Admiral’s Cup from Corum is rightly proud of its almost sixty-year heritage. This year it comes dressed in black, rather unusual for a watch connected with yachts and seafaring. The Admiral’s Cup Legend 47 Worldtimer has a grade 2 titanium case and a matt black lacquered brass dial, against which are displayed the colourful nautical pennants that are emblematic of the collection. The hour, minute, second and world time functions are driven by the automatic CO637 calibre, delivering a power reserve of 48 hours. The city names of the 24 time zones are engraved on the smoked glass case back. The watch is fitted with a black vulcanised rubber bracelet, and comes in a bi-colour version with rose gold bezel.
Two new diving watches from collections that share the same vintage as the Admiral’s Cup – the Scafograf 300 from Eberhard and the SuperKontiki Chrono by Eterna – are more sober in appearance, with dial, bezel and strap in black rubber.
Classic elegance
Black, reliably timeless and elegant, is the chosen colour for two exquisite men’s models. The slim 43 mm steel case of the Grande Seconde Off-Centred by Jaquet Droz frames an intense black polished onyx dial, which comes alive with reflected light. With just the essential elements for telling the time – three svelte hands and two off-centred circles with no numerals – the understated aesthetic of this watch relies on the intense beauty of the black mineral disc.
Graff’s new Vendôme collection comprises a number of colourful models whose sumptuous gem-setting pays tribute to the precious stones for which the jeweller-watchmaker is known. The black dial framed by its architectural rectangular case – with or without gems – produces a striking and sophisticated effect.
Skeleton
The latest version of Claude Meylan’s Tortue comes in seven colours plus black and white, and fans of the brand will relish the juxtaposition of the skeletonised interior with its dark surround. The use of black accentuates the delicate and meticulously sculpted components of the manually wound manufacture movement 65M16, which are darkened using a galvanising process, giving this timepiece a mysterious aura despite its airy transparency. Hysek’s Furtif Tourbillon Squelette has a far bolder and more masculine presence, with its imposing and complex case in anthracite titanium, softened slightly by the crown and screws in rose gold. At the heart of the timepiece, the rotating elements of the Calibre HS 15 skeleton flying tourbillon movement – the gear train and tourbillon wheel – are picked out in gold to catch the light.
Métiers d’art
Trust Belgian brand Lebeau-Courally to successfully combine Liège tapestry with watchmaking in a highly contemporary black watch. The Le Baron 1865 automatic chronograph pays tribute to classical Liègeois engraving techniques, executed by hand with hammer and chisel by the company’s own craftsmen on the silver dial set against a black background. The highly intricate flower and leaf motifs are seamlessly incorporated into the modern DLC-treated steel case, which is paired with a black strap.
Cvstos has chosen koi carp as the theme for a watch designed to be a métiers d’art tableau. The Koi Tourbillon Challenge, opulently carpeted in black gemstones, reveals the components of the openworked manually wound CVS 2600C movement, interspersed with colourful engravings featuring Japanese motifs.
And there’s more...
In addition to the models presented above, the photo gallery continues our exploration of black with timepieces by Hublot, Blancpain, Fabergé, Louis Moinet, MCT and Patek Philippe. Click on the big image at the top of the page.
