There’ll be no new collection from Carl F. Bucherer this year, and that’s a good thing. The company’s watch ranges are already broad, and if they are to really make an impression on the markets, they probably need a bit more variation.
Paradoxically, Carl F. Bucherer remains most well-known for its movement with a peripheral oscillating weight, a technical feat of a kind that is increasingly rare in watchmaking circles, and something the company masters with aplomb. To enjoy such recognition for a movement is an accomplishment that many watchmakers can only dream of!p rêvent !
Carl F. Bucherer goes green (and blue)
This year, Carl F. Bucherer plans to focus on two highly complementary collections: the classic, urban Manero, and the sporty ScubaTec. The Manero will be enriched with three new ranges. The Manero PowerReserve, hitherto available only in classic silvered grey and delicate black versions, will be gaining two coloured dials: one in blue, the other green. Rather than a uniform colour, the deep, vivid hue around the edge fades to a lighter shade in the centre. This kind of sunburst treatment is popular with other watchmakers (H. Moser & Cie, Glashütte Original, Hamilton, etc.), but not generally in such rich colours. These 42.5 mm watches are available in a limited edition of 188 each.
In parallel, Carl F. Bucherer is launching three new versions of the Manero Flyback. This sophisticated chronograph movement with flyback function comes in a classic 18K rose gold or steel case. Three different dials, in blue-grey, black or champagne, bring new variations to the ultra-conservative Manero Flyback.
Finally, Carl F. Bucherer is bringing out two new versions of its Manero women’s collection, based on the new manufacture calibre launched last year, the CFB A2000, with date and small seconds at 6 o’clock. The bezel is set with 60 diamonds, and there is a choice of two dials in white or brown mother-of-pearl. While we’re not entirely convinced by the 40 mm diameter, which is on the large side for many women’s wrists, we applaud the choice of chocolate-coloured mother-of-pearl, which is a real feast for the eyes.
The ScubaTec is back with a vengeance
Carl F. Bucherer’s other Basel announcement concerns the company’s diver, the very successful ScubaTec. Unveiled two years ago, the watch very quickly established itself as a technical nautical timepiece to be reckoned with. In fact, that raises the question of the relevance of a new limited edition dedicated to the Swiss Football Association (ASF). While there is an obvious connection to the world of sport, the decision to link a diving watch with a football association leaves us scratching our heads.
But there is no confusion over the other two variants of this model, both of which preserve their nautical DNA. The first, simply named the ScubaTec Ladies, dives into the world of sports-chic for women. This time, the case remains at a reasonable 36 mm diameter, with a bezel discreetly set with diamonds over the hour markers, thus avoiding the pitfall of a jewel-encrusted watch, which would detract from its diving essence. There’s one unusual feature: on this model, Carl F. Bucherer has also chosen to put diamonds on the upper surface of the lugs, softening the transition to the steel bracelet which can, if desired, be swapped for a rubber strap, in keeping with the primary vocation of the ScubaTec.
Finally, Carl F. Bucherer has decided to plunge the ScubaTec into its Lucerne roots, with a turquoise model in honour of the colours of the local flag. Its water resistance to 500 m, automatic helium valve and blackened titanium crown protector are guarantees of its diving credentials. The 44.6 mm diameter of the rose gold case clearly marks it out as a man’s watch, but a women’s variant would no doubt be equally convincing.
