Like the tourbillon escapement, jumping hours were invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the first half of the nineteenth century. At that time, the hours jumped but were still pointed by a hand that remained fixed in its position for one hour, moving instantaneously to the next hour when the minutes hand completed its journey. While the principle remains the same, the display has evolved for greater legibility and the hours now jump in an aperture. Minutes can be by a traditional hand, retrograde, or can also jump.
Réservoir, CHF 4,800
This excellent value entry-level proposition does a great job with its modern interpretation of one of the rarer complications. The red and green palette of the retrograde minutes, which riffs on a dashboard instrument design, gives this watch a definite motor-sports vibe.
Bulgari-Gérald Genta, CHF 22,400
A fun and (relatively speaking) affordable watch that happens to be an icon, from the creative mind of Gérald Genta, designer of the Nautilus and the Royal Oak, who uses Mickey Mouse’s arm to point to retrograde minutes.
Chanel Horlogerie, CHF 41,450
Chanel isn’t only for women, as the aptly named Monsieur proves. It makes an elegant showcase for the watchmaker’s expertise. In a discreet nod to Chanel’s symbols, the aperture for the jumping hours is shaped like Place Vendôme.
Bovet, CHF 68,500
This watch of a thousand faces transforms from a wristwatch to a pocket watch, a pendant watch and a desk clock. Supremely classic in its style, it surprises nonetheless with a first execution in titanium while retaining a vintage salmon shade for the dial.
MB&F, CHF 85,000
Like every MB&F Horological Machine, the N°5 is anything but conventional. There is a simple explanation for its unique design: growing up, MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser dreamed of becoming a car designer. This Machine grabs inspiration from the Lamborghini Miura, an Italian supercar that looks as though it could break the sound barrier while standing still!
A. Lange & Söhne, CHF 114,500
The legendary Saxony watchmaker is renowned for displaying the date in an outsize aperture. Here there are not one but two openings, for jumping hours and minutes. The translucent dial allows a peek of the hours and minutes discs below.
Vacheron Constantin, CHF 118,000
Each year, Vacheron Constantin marks the lunar new year with a watch that associates a jumping hours complication with decorative arts. Apertures for hours as well as minutes, day and date are set against a hand-engraved dial in pink gold, enhanced with grand feu enamel.
Louis Vuitton, CHF 464,000
This Tambour watch couldn’t be further removed from a simple monogram flower decoration. Here we have a grand complication whose jumping hours, retrograde minutes and power-reserve indication are joined by a mechanical automaton that brings the entire hand-enamelled, miniature-painted dial to life.
