Did you ever imagine, ten years ago, such a trajectory for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud?
We had in mind a contemporary watch that would reprise elements from the marine, pocket and precision timepieces of Ferdinand Berthoud, and in that respect we have done what we set out to do. Every watch we have made contains part of the history of Ferdinand Berthoud, interpreted with today’s techniques. The question we have always asked ourselves is, “how would Ferdinand Berthoud have done this?”
What drew you to Berthoud?
He was a visionary. More scientist than watchmaker. Berthoud was intent on sharing his discoveries and so he wrote numerous treatises which continue to inspire us today. He was no ordinary man.
Are you still finding aspects of his work that add to the image you have of him?
All the time. It’s a constant discovery, and that’s what makes this such an exciting endeavour. The FB 3 also incorporates elements that were inspired by Berthoud’s own work. It reflects our wish to make watches that respect history and are also resolutely contemporary.
You’re not the only brand with a famous name making top quality watches. Do you still consider Ferdinand Berthoud to be unique?
This was never about reviving a famous name. I actually discovered Ferdinand Berthoud thanks to our collection of marine chronometers, having acquired one of his for the L.U.Ceum, our museum. The more we researched it, the more we found out about him, and decided to bring his name back to life.
Is it still possible to find an original Berthoud on the market?
They are extremely rare. Based on careful study of archive documents, we have drawn up a precise inventory of every Ferdinand Berthoud marine clock. We know that the majority of authentic Berthoud timepieces are in private collections or museums, and very few are in working order. The ones we have been able to acquire for our museum have been carefully restored to their original patina and function.
Can we look forward to travelling exhibitions that would open up the L.U.CEUM’s collections to a wider audience?
At this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva we presented our most recently restored marine clock, and I’ve nothing against the idea that it might go on some much longer journeys in the future. After all, it’s already a well-travelled piece. Of course it would be in more comfortable conditions than bumping along in a horse-drawn carriage!
Can the brand interest collectors who don’t possess what these days seems to be a requisite level of expertise?
When someone purchases a Ferdinand Berthoud, very probably they already own some exceptional timepieces and are well versed in the subject. However, we cannot satisfy every single collector. Each watch is the result of a long and complex development process, and is then crafted with the utmost care and attention. There’s no other way.
Could the fact you are unable to satisfy demand fuel speculation?
Of course there’s a risk. Our watches are positioned at a fair price. Sadly we have no say over what happens afterwards. The fact there are so few of them means they will remain rare for a very long time. Take our most recent release, the FB 3, for example. All being well, we’ll deliver around twenty pieces this year. Even with the best will in the world, it would be impossible for us to exceed that number. We have orders for the FB 3 for the next three years and have committed to the next two years. Increasing production capacity would be difficult and even then we’re talking an additional 20, at the very most 30 watches a year.
Why is that?
Because the movement finishing we require is a highly specialised technique that very few people master. We will never use machines for part of our decoration. Only carefully hand-executed work which demands a great deal of time and patience.
Can you not hire new talent?
You don’t just click your fingers. The Chopard Group has apprentice watchmakers in Geneva and in Fleurier. We take around fifteen students a year over a four-year cycle. Each year, two or three really stand out for their ability, but will still need several more years of experience before they can meet the standards required for complication watches such as those by Ferdinand Berthoud.
Are the synergies between the Chopard Group and Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud as great as they were at the beginning, or do you intend the brand to become increasingly independent… perhaps even have its own Manufacture?
We own an eighteenth-century farmhouse in Fleurier, which we plan to restore, that would be perfect for Berthoud. We’re working on it.
Did you ever have any doubts about the solidity of the enterprise you were undertaking?
I’m naturally cautious and never expected so much interest, the kind of success we can claim today. If you don’t question your approach, if you don’t keep asking yourself if you’re on the right track, there is always the risk that you will venture off-course. It’s important to listen to what customers, the market, staff have to say… even if, at the end of the day, the buck stops here! In everything I’ve done so far, I’ve always had the humility to question what I’m doing. I’ve never lost faith. Of course there have been highs and lows, problems that seemed impossible to overcome, but the sun always rises. I’m an eternal optimist and, most of all, an entrepreneur.
