An iconic model, the perpetual calendar by H. Moser & Cie. is known for its complex movement, which nevertheless boasts unrivalled ease of use. The absence of a subdial and date disc makes it very easy to read. With the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. takes its minimalist philosophy even further by removing the brand logo and all indices except for those at 12 and 6 o'clock, in order to showcase the full beauty of the "Grand Feu" enamel dial.
Starting with a pattern engrained onto a gold base, as if hammered, four different colour pigments are washed, finely crushed, then applied to create an ombré effect. Careful work and limitless patience are required for the master enameller to painstakingly apply the pigments, adding them one by one so that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated in the furnace, without any pixellation. A translucent "Grand Feu" enamel dial must be fired twelve times in total to create the signature H. Moser & Cie. fumé effect.
Each dial is unique. The finish is remarkable: resolutely contemporary, with a particularly complex texture and an intense hue christened Abyss Blue. At the centre, the small hand indicates the months, while a very large date window at 3 o'clock, with the "Flash Calendar" function providing an instant date change at midnight and a power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock displaying the movement's seven days of autonomy, complete the piece. The time and date are easy to set using the crown, and can be changed at any time of the day.
H. Moser & Cie. has revolutionised the perpetual calendar by transforming a complication designed for the most discerning of collectors into a watch that even a child could operate. The resulting aesthetic is instantly recognisable, proving that real luxury is a question of identity – even without obvious markers.
