Some remember the distant era of the global watch fair. From the "Sausage and Samples Fair," the event had evolved into Baselworld, a gigantic gathering of the best in watchmaking and jewelry. At its peak, in 2015, it brought together 1,500 exhibitors. For comparison, Watches and Wonders Geneva has 60.
At the center of Hall 1 stood a "plaza" where almost all the brands of the Swatch Group were gathered: Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton, etc. No one could reasonably ignore that all these brands belonged to the same group. Just as it is implied today that the historical exhibitors of Watches and Wonders all belong... to the Richemont group.
Why this reminder? Because this group logic, although never hidden, has rarely been openly displayed. But Georges Kern seems to have decided otherwise. During Dubai Watch Week, the head (and shareholder) of Breitling unveiled his House of Brands. One building, one group, three brands explicitly related and adjacent at the heart of a single, enclosed space.
"Personally, I have always been quite critical of traditional watch fairs, mainly because of their high costs," the CEO told WorldTempus. "It is one of the reasons why Breitling chose to participate in the Geneva Watch Days. It is a format that we helped initiate and are very attached to. The environment is more relaxed, more collaborative, and it offers an extremely effective platform for interacting with the press and retailers."
Would he consider participating in Watches and Wonders? The answer is more nuanced: "I don’t think it would make us sell more or fewer watches. We live in the digital age, where product launches and storytelling can happen globally, instantly. But for now, nothing has been decided."
A New Era?
The change in approach is notable. The watch audience is much better informed than 15 years ago. The portfolios of watch groups are no longer a secret. The Swatch Group empire and the dazzling Richemont navigate at the head of a pack of less specialized stables: the LVMH flagship (TAG Heuer, Hublot, Zenith, Bvlgari), Movado (Movado, Ebel, Concord), Festina (Festina, Lotus, etc., but above all the movement manufacturer Soprod). Chanel has invested in Bell & Ross, Romain Gauthier, F.P. Journe, MB&F, Kross Manufacture (independently of Kross Studio, not concerned), but without creating a unitary watch group per se. However, Georges Kern’s strategy is even different. More visible, more assumed, more exposed to the end customer, with a single umbrella concept, the House of Brands.
“Our ambition is to create something exclusive, bespoke, and agile. It is a long-term strategy aimed at developing a portfolio of exceptional and unique brands,” Georges Kern continues. Before opening a more unexpected door: “We do not exclude welcoming other brands in the future, provided they align with this logic: authenticity, history, coherence, and long-term creative potential. By bringing these brands together, we aim to address a greater diversity of budgets and lifestyles, thereby responding to the evolving interests and aspirations of our clientele. This reflects the modern relationship collectors and clients have with watchmaking.”
“Several entry points”
To date, the House of Brands brings together three brands. Universal Genève and Gallet are both renowned houses and leading chronograph manufacturers, overshadowed by the advent of quartz in the 1970s and 1980s. They are now making a notable comeback in complementary positions: ultra-luxury for Universal, entry-level for Gallet (whose official launch is expected in autumn 2026).
Between these two poles, the iconic Breitling finds its natural place. The brand targets a core audience between 6,000 and 16,000 CHF, with some more accessible lines (SuperOcean, Top Time) and others well beyond (complications, gold models). “Our strategy is to offer several entry points into the world of luxury; three different stories connected by a common thread: that of authentic and contemporary craftsmanship,” concludes Georges Kern, who had reserved 400 square meters at the Dubai Watch Week House of Brands to reveal a few previews to a select panel of prospects.
