The wildest: MB&F HM9
MB&F’s Horological Machine No. 9 with its two independent flying balances, central planetary differential, eye-catching mechanics, unprecedented shape, and sapphire cockpit devoid of a single flat surface, couldn’t be more out of the ordinary. Admittedly, this mechanical marvel had already been presented in 2019 (after the creation of the movement), and 2021 (first sapphire case), but the two 2023 editions confirm the power of a design and calibre that outclass anything watchmaking had been able to imagine up to that point. Once again, there will be two five-piece micro series – one in yellow gold with a green movement, and one in white gold with a blue movement. So, you have the likes of Patek Philippe, Breguet, and more for traditional excellence, and for the rest, there’s MB&F.
ArtyA Purity Tourbillon
The ArtyA Purity Tourbillon has just passed the GPHG pre-selection stage, and it is no surprise. The gifted Yvan Arpa has once again designed a watch that fundamentally renews the achievements on which many brands have fallen asleep: the tourbillon and the sapphire case. The approach is airy, open, and playful. The sapphire colours are fresh and original. The movement here is king. It is slightly reminiscent of Hysek’s, or for the ultimate reference, Vincent Calabrese’s baguette movement, while the case cloaks it in a garment of light, which changes from green to amber depending on the angle of exposure to the light. You will never tire of a watch that never looks the same twice.
The Blackest of Blacks: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack
We have already seen a few pieces using Vantablack, but the material continues to amaze. With its almost absolute black effect, absorbing 99.965% of the light. It now adorns a very sober Endeavour, the most classic timepiece in the H. Moser & Cie. collections. The contrast with the red gold is striking. The purity of the piece, with only three hands on a black background, is fascinating, almost hypnotic. The 40mm diameter is also ideal. This new Endeavour doesn’t invent anything new, but quite simply offers a perfect combination of aesthetics and technology. Something to think about, for sure!
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8tech
Next year, Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato will celebrate its 50th anniversary, proving its immense versatility and perfect design codes right from the start. But you won’t have to wait until 2025 to enjoy it. In its Absolute version, which has been exploring its wild side since 2019, the Laureato is unveiled today in a composite, carbon, and titanium case. The piece is expressive, especially in its 44 mm diameter. The finishing is exemplary, and the movement (GP3300) is tried and tested. This is how to rework a legend with a touch of audacity without betraying it.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic
For the fifth watch, take the previous two, add a touch of Bulgari madness, slim things down to the extreme, and you get the new Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic. You can see it, describe it, remember its 6.9 mm thickness, underline its extraordinary geometry, but above all, it is a watch you have to try on. The watch is ultra-light and ultra-flat. The carbon case is soft against the skin, which is naturally at room temperature. Its moiré pattern is both sporty and elegant, two attributes that are more often opposed than convergent. Water resistance Is guaranteed to 100 metres, and legibility is optimal thanks to the choice of bright yet soft pink gold. The Octo Finissimo has always been perfect and it remains so.
