One of the most interesting things going on during this part of the horological calendar is the opening of the first round of voting of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). If you have any interest at all in watchmaking, you’ll be delighted by the increase in diversity of watches competing for a place in the final six.
This year, there are 15 categories, compared to last year’s 14, and this is due to the new category: Mechanical Clock. This offers a greater variety of designs and creative scope, since participants no longer have to restrict themselves to the dimensions of a wristwatch. Our friends at Trilobe, having experienced success with their wall/desk clock at the 2021 edition of Only Watch, are entering it in competition to bring greater awareness to what they’ve created in collaboration with conceptual artist Daniel Buren. The remarkable Fontaine Aux Oiseaux, exhibited by Van Cleef & Arpels at Watches and Wonders, is another outstanding participant in this category, featuring the maison’s emblematic blend of mechanical prowess and visual poetry.
The whimsical spirit is fully on display amongst this year’s competing timepieces. Konstantin Chaykin is a bravura watchmaker, whose quirky “Joker” wristwatch occasionally obscures the fact that he makes some of the world’s most complex astronomical clocks — more accurately described as highly decorated (and decorative) mechanical computers. This year, he is represented in four separate categories, but it’s his “Minions” wristwatch, inspired by the popular animated series, that brings the biggest smiles to our faces.
Famous animated characters also take the spotlight in watches by Bamford Watch Department and Reservoir, the former featuring everyone’s favourite cartoon beagle, Snoopy, and the latter starring the investigative duo Blake and Mortimer from the eponymous comic books. Louis Vuitton’s adored mascot Vivienne pops up in the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours, while Takashi Murakami’s jubilant flower beams at us from the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow.
Overall, there’s a celebratory air about all the participating watches this year — watchmaking in 2022 is about having a good time. Whether it’s the colourful exuberance of a peacock-themed watch from Chopard, the mechanical extravaganza of MB&F’s first chronograph (and what a chronograph!), a phalanx of dancing bees in Gucci’s flying tourbillon or the anniversary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked, the latest GPHG is filled with pieces reminding us that fine watchmaking is meant to be enjoyed. Boring, over-serious luxury is yesterday’s news.
On that note, WorldTempus would like to wish all the competing brands the best of luck, and, to the GPHG Academy — have fun voting!
Click here to discover all the pre-selected watches.
