When it comes to being deadly serious about craftsmanship but being fun and provocative with design, few watchmakers can hold a candle to H. Moser & Cie.
The oft-cast enfant terrible of the Swiss watch industry has once again been rolling out its cheeky, head-turning brand of high-end watchmaking at Watches & Wonders 2024 where visitors to the fair could discover the independent brand’s new, eye-popping, wow-inducing Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green.
Zingy and Zesty
Launched in the lead-up to the show, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green takes a number of the Schaffhausen watchmaker’s hallmarks – the stainless-steel case of its versatile Pioneer line, its logo-less and indexless Concept design, and its eye-catching fumé dials – and spectacularly brings them together for the first time, topping it all off by debuting a zingy, zesty lime green dial hue.
In the past, H. Moser has served up blue lagoon, arctic blue, funky blue, and even a Swiss Mad fumé dial for its Pioneer. The fresh, new Citrus fumé tone is definitely an eye-catcher, head-turner and show-stealer rolled into one, but behind all the boldness are a plenty of subtle details that help bolster the minimalist dial’s allure.
For a start, this is an H. Moser fumé dial and so there is a distinct gradient to its shade that gradually switches from a deep green at the edge to a lighter, almost yellow hue in the centre. And emanating from that centre is a radial sunburst decoration that neatly catches the light.
Encircling the whole is a crisp white flange composed of the same Super-LumiNova with which the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are filled. According to the brand in its press materials, that generous dose of lume helps to “show the time even in the depths of the dancefloor.”
Got the Looks and Specs
H. Moser’s reference to the potential deployment of this watch down at the disco shouldn’t be ignored. This, after all, is a Pioneer and as such it has both the looks and the specs to hit the town and the waves in equal measure.
Indeed, the 42.8mm stainless-steel case with recessed lugs plus domed sapphire crystal is stylish yet sturdy. Some 3.6mm of its 14.2mm height is accounted for by the protrusion of the scratch-proof crystal, while the screw-in crown helps make the watch water resistant to a decent 120 metres.
On the inside ticks H. Moser’s automatic manufacture Calibre HMC 201 featuring bidirectional winding and ample 72-hour power reserve. There are also hacking seconds for accurate time-setting while the original Straumann hairspring boasts the proprietary PE 4000 alloy.
The movement looks the part too, with the bridges and mainplate anthracite-toned and decorated with Moser’s double stripes. Some of the bridges and the rotor have been skeletonised, allowing for unincumbered views of the balance and gilded gears.
Finally, the right strap choice will elevate this Ref. 3201-1204 Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green even further and H. Moser has duly announced the visually arresting watch head can be paired with a hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber or textile strap with steel pin buckle, or an H-link steel bracelet.
To find out more, please visit H. Moser & Cie’s website.
