MB&F - TWO DECADES OF MADNESS

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Cover ©MB&F
6 minutes read
2025 marks the 20th anniversary of MB&F: Twenty years of creativity, friendship… and glorious madness.

The beginning: one man and a crazy idea

The MB&F journey began in 2005 with Maximilian Büsser (the “MB”) and a handful of brave souls he called “Friends” (the “F”). Two decades later, MB&F is a thriving collective: nearly 70 team members, hundreds of Friends, 22 in-house calibres, nine GPHG awards, a second brand (M.A.D.Editions), and a portfolio of wildly diverse creations. But let’s rewind.

Daring to dream. Daring to believe.

Back in 2005, all Max had was a sketch and a dream. Leaving his high-powered corporate role at Harry Winston, he set off on a world tour to pitch a timepiece that didn’t exist yet, from a brand no one had heard of.

But a few visionary retailers took the leap: The Hour Glass (Singapore), Westime (Los Angeles), Ahmed Seddiqi (Dubai), Ghadah (Kuwait) and Chronopassion (Paris). They paid up front for the promise of something extraordinary—and became the brand’s first retail “Friends.” It was a risky bet that helped launch one of the most influential independent watch brands of the modern era.

Rewriting the rules of independent watchmaking

In the early 2000s, the independent scene was barely a scene at all. Major brands dominated the industry, while small independent watchmakers toiled quietly on the sidelines.

Max had already begun to disrupt this landscape at Harry Winston with the Opus series, bridging the world of high-end luxury watchmaking with the minds of independent watchmakers. But with MB&F, he went further—building machines the industry had never seen before, pieces that blurred the line between timekeeping and kinetic art. The driving force? A belief that true creativity means holding on to the wild imagination of childhood—a spirit captured in the brand’s mantra: “a creative adult is a child who survived”.

©MB&F

Twenty years of mechanical insanity

Like any startup story, MB&F’s first years were anything but smooth. Yet the result is astonishing: approximately 4,500 timepieces created across four main collections – Horological Machines, Legacy Machines, Performance Art and Special Projects – each powered by one of 22 original calibres. Not to mention co-created clocks, music boxes, and other kinetic curiosities, plus the more democratic but equally daring M.A.D.Editions.

Each machine has pushed boundaries. From the HM1’s four-barrel engine to the LM1’s flying balance and vertical power reserve. From the LM Perpetual’s revolutionary mechanical processor and split escapement, to the LM Thunderdome’s record-breaking triple-axis mechanism. From the HM10 Bulldog’s “jaws” power reserve to the LM Sequential’s patented Twinverter switch and jewelled vertical clutches. And of course, the architectural marvel of the HM11, whose rotating case lets you wind the movement and display the function of your choice—including temperature.

Stephen McDonnell: the architect of ingenuity

One name deserves special recognition: Stephen McDonnell. The Northern Irish watchmaker helped bring the first HM1s to life in 2007. But his true breakthrough came with the LM Perpetual—a complete rethinking of the perpetual calendar complication: more reliable, more intuitive, and far less prone to error.

He followed that with another horological leap: the LM Sequential, introducing the Twinverter system and an unprecedented combination of timing modes, earning MB&F the 2022 GPHG Aiguille d’Or—independent watchmaking’s most prestigious award. The LM Sequential Flyback, launched in 2023, took that concept even further, showing the world just how far mechanical timing could go.

Friends front and centre

In a world where brands used to hide their suppliers, MB&F did the opposite. From the start, “Friends” were front and centre: watchmakers, designers, engineers, engravers, casemakers... Just like in film credits, everyone who plays a role gets acknowledged.

Among them, Eric Giroud, the independent designer who has created with Max the first two decades of Horological and Legacy Machines. The cast of Friends includes many other famous names like Kari Voutilainen, Peter Speake, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, Eric Coudray, Stepan Sarpaneva, Stephen McDonnell...

Crediting these essential Friends wasn’t just a nice gesture—it was one of the foundations of the brand: “treat others like you’d like to be treated”.

©MB&F

From fully outsourced to a hybrid model

In the early days, MB&F operated with a lean setup: creation and assembly were handled in-house, while all research, development, and component manufacturing were entrusted entirely to the Friends. As the brand evolved, so did its structure.

Today, MB&F operates on a hybrid model, with an in-house R&D team of eight engineers and a machining workshop that now produces 75–80% of the cases and around 15–20% of the movement components—while continuing to collaborate closely with its trusted external partners.

Co-creations & Performance Art

MB&F’s collaborative spirit led to an entire genre of creations. In 2009, the brand’s first Performance Art piece—a one-of-a-kind HM2 with Los Angeles-based artist Sage Vaughn—debuted at the Only Watch charity auction. A year later came the JwlryMachine, a high-jewellery owl version of HM3 made with the Parisian jewellery brand Boucheron.

Since then, MB&F has partnered with designers like Alain Silberstein and James Thompson (aka Black Badger), artists like Huang Hankang, Cassandra Legendre and Xia Hang, engraver Eddy Jaquet, jeweller Emmanuel Tarpin, and watchmakers like Stepan Sarpaneva, H. Moser & Cie, and even Bvlgari.

And then came the clocks. MB&F and L’Epée 1839 turned the forgotten world of table clocks into something thrilling—with rockets, jellyfish, robots and spiders. Suddenly, clocks were cool again. Music boxes with Reuge, writing instruments with Caran d’Ache, even magnifying loupes shaped like rockets: MB&F’s universe kept expanding.

The Tribe

MB&F doesn’t just craft watches—it builds connections. Over the years, it’s gathered a global community of collectors inspired by the brand’s mission: not just to sell horological art, but to help people find their “true north”.

This led to the creation of The Tribe. Every collector who registers an MB&F watch becomes a Tribe member, unlocking insider perks—from early access to M.A.D.Editions, to a matching Minimilian (the brand’s lovable figurines), to invitations to special Gatherings hosted by Max and the team.

©MB&F

M.A.D.Editions: the watch that shouldn’t exist

In 2014, Max had a thought: what if he could make a more affordable watch? One that friends and family could actually buy. The idea looked promising—but after years of development, it was shelved. Too many challenges, not enough time.

Then came Covid. The world slowed down. MB&F revisited the project—this time, not for the public, but as a thank-you to the Friends and the Tribe. An email went out to 500 of them, offering a new watch—dubbed the M.A.D.1—at a fraction of the price of an MB&F Machine.

The response was explosive. The watches disappeared instantly. The larger watch world was furious they’d missed out. Max had to issue a public apology—and promised to make more. The M.A.D.1 eventually launched to the public in a limited run of a few hundred pieces, with a raffle to allocate them fairly. Over 18,000 people signed up. Since then, new versions of the M.A.D.1 and the M.A.D.2 (launched in 2025) have continued the adventure.

Spaces for mechanical art – M.A.D.Galleries & MB&F Labs

In 2011, MB&F opened its first M.A.D.Gallery on Geneva’s Rue Verdaine. The goal? To place its watches in the context of other mechanical and kinetic art.

Since then, the concept has expanded globally, taking the shape of both full-scale M.A.D.Galleries and more compact MB&F LABS. Each space, designed by Voltige Design & Architecture, features sculptural interiors, domed displays, and a distinctive blue lens that flips the world upside down as you walk by.

Looking ahead

As MB&F enters its third decade, the adventure continues. On the creative front, next to Max Büsser and Eric Giroud, a new generation is stepping forward: Berlin-based designer Maximilian Maertens, who began as an intern in 2017, is now co-leading creative projects, with the first Büsser-Maertens wristwatch due in 2026.

In August 2024, privately-owned Chanel became a new “Friend” of the brand, acquiring a minority 25% stake. It’s a partnership that brings long-term security without compromising independence—joining the ranks of F.P. Journe and Romain Gauthier in Chanel’s high-watchmaking portfolio.

Twenty years on: still M.A.D.

Twenty years of mechanical insanity. Of believing in Friends. Of turning bold ideas into ticking realities. MB&F has helped redefine what independent watchmaking can be—transparent, collaborative, disruptive, and above all: inspiring.

Because in the end, MB&F has never been about just watches. It’s been about creativity, imagination, community, and the pursuit of finding your true north. And if the past is anything to go by, the madness has only just begun.

 

©MB&F
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