“After a decade of very dark greens, a lot of lighter greens have come,” said freelancing designer and watch expert Stefano Macaluso. This pastel trend with paler and subtly nuanced hues follows a few years of shiny green watches like Kermit the Frog from Oris. With this development the brand’s wanderlust into the material libraries is evident.
“For me the colour green works best when it is connected with a concept, for instance the Girard-Perregaux Aston Martin collaboration. An example of that is the Girard-Perregaux Aston Martin Laureato Chronograph, released at the beginning of the year,” Mr. Macaluso said of the watch where the dial is painted with iridescent automotive paint. This gives it a mesmerising minty green-to-orange gradient, depending on the angle of the reflected light.
MINTY UNIVERSE
Other watches in the minty universe are H. Moser & Cie’s Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop, Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic, Norqain’s Wild One Skeleton 39 Limited Edition Mint, Tissot’s PRX Quartz Mint, and Oris’s Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre.
On these watches the technologies for achieving the green hues vary a lot. Moser joins the parallel trend of stone dials by using Burmese jade, contrasting it with a pink opal small seconds subdial at six o’clock. Hublot uses its expertise in coloured ceramics to create a green lollipop held in place by an equally minty rubber strap. Norqain has mint green rubber shock absorbers and minty crown protectors combined with an integrated mint green fabric strap with Milanaise pattern, while Oris and Tissot have lacquered dials.
“The niche market with fantastic dials made of semi-precious stones like malachite and jade is a very interesting vintage trend from brands like Piaget, which is now really back with contemporary brands including Biver,” said Macaluso.
IT’S GETTING SLATE
A closely related green area that was frequent among the 2025 spring drops is that of salvia, olive and slate. A strong contestant in this area is the maison of Parmigiani Fleurier – a brand up for grabs, but hitherto without a buyer. At Watches & Wonders the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante was introduced in Verzasca Green, a tone inspired by the crystalline, jade green waters of the Verzasca River flowing through Switzerland’s Verzasca Valley. If slate green is more your cup of (green) tea, Parmigiani also released the Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton in a slate green version. Said Mr. Macaluso: “A less mainstream watch with a green dial is perhaps not your daily watch because it can be complicated to combine with other colours – but with these lighter greens it is easier.”
TECHNICAL AQUAMARINE
In the Aquamarine universe – a colour sitting in between cyan and green in the colour wheel, you have many examples of green-blue hues with a fresh tone that goes well with a summer tan and a casual wardrobe. Named after the mineral that gives the colour its name, Ressence Type 7 Aquamarine is a great example of this. With its first integrated sports watch, the brand founded by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens has given the tone to the convex Grade 5 titanium with three eccentric, inclined biaxial satellites. “There is always a cycle in colour trends that also depends on materials,” explained Mr. Macaluso.
