The first thing that pops into your head on seeing this new Scafograf 200 with its full-black DLC coating is, why now? Monochrome black was all the rage well over a decade ago, when Breitling released murdered-out versions of the Avenger and Super Avenger. Black watches were the epitome of a military, virile, ready-for-anything attitude. An uncompromising livery for die-hard collectors.
Dive watches, on the other hand, have been adopting bold and sometimes bright colours these past few years. Think Doxa’s SUB splashing around in the Pantone colour chart like a dolphin in Moruroa. Cast your mind back to Breitling Superoceans in Rainbow shades for offshore Warriors. Need we mention blue as the go-to colour for divers or furiously fashionable green? No, seriously, who on earth would bring out an all-black watch?
A lot to like
Except this new Scafograf hits the spot precisely because it goes against the grain. First off, it truly looks the part in black. At 43mm in diameter, this isn’t a small watch by any stretch of the imagination but the fact it’s neither turquoise nor orange means it will always be discreet. Just don’t expect it to fit under a shirt cuff.
Next, the hands and markers stand out even more against this monochrome backdrop. This is good news given that legibility is a prime requirement of any dive watch.
Security is another box that has to be ticked, guaranteed by compliance with ISO 6425 standard: unidirectional bezel, seconds hand, safety clasp, etc. The helium valve will reassure collectors but that’s about all. Vital for deep-sea and saturation diving, it serves no practical purpose on a dive watch with a 200-metre rating. Then again, nor does a tourbillon in a wristwatch. Horological marketing truly does work in mysterious ways.
Old and new
Another reason this Scafograf 200 DLC makes such a splash is the balance of old and new. While the DLC coating and rubber strap are contemporary touches, Eberhard & Co has chosen a delightful vintage beige for the Super-LumiNova. That the bezel scale (with ceramic insert) comes in the same shade – not always the case - is a welcome touch. Similarly, the broad hands inspired by the 1959 original add to the vintage feel, whereas black injects a modern vibe.
A couple of features could be given the thumbs down by certain purists. The solid steel back, for example. Even if Eberhard & Co does use Sellita and ETA base calibres, a sapphire back with a smattering of movement decoration would have added to the watch’s perceived value. Also, this is a limited edition of 135, as in the anniversary of the brand’s creation (in 1887, to save you the trouble). Given the Italian market’s (voracious) appetite as much for dive watches as for Eberhard & Co, it’ll be a case of first swum, first served…
